KTM 300 XCW to GG 300

[stainlesscycle]

good jetting and 1.2 squish i'm getting 2+ hours race pace. i almost always fuel stop and add a 1/2 gallon or so just in case - never hit reserve even on the 2 hrs + a lap - but i get close. maybe 50 miles in muddy conditions. a little more in dry conditions.

[Powercat]

Thanks again for the feedback! There is a dealer here in Colorado that I think will let me test ride one. Its not that I don't like the KTM, I really do like it....best bike I've ever had. But, I've just heard good things about the GG and thought I better try one. I haven't talked with anyone yet that has been disappointed with the GG 300.

[gasser]

Originally Posted by Powercat

Thanks for the feedback. I'm a little concerned about the fuel range also. I've gone over 80 miles on the KTM and never hit reserve. I've read on this form that you hit reserve at just over 40 miles on the GG. Other than that I think I just need to ride one.

At sea level to 1,000 ft altitude at race pace with the wrong needle in your carb and/or a float that is set too high under 20 miles per gallon is possible on a gasser but under the same conditions they get roughly the same mileage as KTMs. Trail riding mileage on my 250 and 300 gassers have averaged between 22 and 30 mpg at low altitude and as much as 33mpg in the Colorado mountains above 8,000 ft. Stock Gasser tanks are 2.5 gallons. Your 09 KTM tank is 2.9 gallons I think. The 2012 KTM 300 will have a smaller tank (2.65 gallons I think). I have found that the RB head mod is good for about 10% better fuel mileage. My 300 gasser with a Clark tank (3.2 gallons) and RB head mod would go 100 miles before hitting reserve in the Colorado high country.

[swazi_matt]

the biggest problem with dirt biking is that it is so much fun it is hard to get anyone to say something bad about the bike they ride!

[Jakobi]

I've got nothing to add to this thread that hasn't been said.

I prefer the 'feel' of the gasser more. I feel like I'm sitting in the bike as opposed to on it. Its like we connect. Power delivery even when set up agressively really isn't. The engine is smooth and predictable and hooks up well. Keep it singing and it'll run around all day on the back wheel if not it'll chug like a 4 stroke equally as happily.

Like everyone else, fit and finish could be a tad better. You need to carry just about a full tool kit to work on this bike, but the plug and carb as easily acccessable with the tank on.

Only thing I don't like about mine is that its not a 2012 model 2010 model with 90hrs/3000kms I'm a happy camper. I'd recommend them to anyone who's in the market. Have a ride and you'll either like it or not

[motogroove]

Gas Gas comes complete with this forum - a very reliable source for reliable support, and very little BS (except for my BS).

Gas Gas is more fun to say. Just say it out loud a few times. "I ride a Gas Gas".
And the looks on people's faces are much better when you say it.

Jim Cook rides a Gas Gas, and who doesn't want to be a little more like Jim?

The Spanish know a thing or two about dancing. Gas Gas dances with trees.

Ohlins.

Your choice of a Gas Gas will indicate that you are a man of refined taste, adventure and nonconformity. Sort of like 007, but with more edge.

One ride will tell you. "The first hit is free".

Happy shopping!

-Dean
2001 xc300

[willy559]

Made the switch this from ktm to Gassers. Pretty comparable, ktm is finished nicer. My Gasser 250 (2011) pulls way harder though. E-start is ugly on my Gasser but it works everytime, even cold. Both sick bikes!!

[Synergy-Seals]

Factory connection sells a" light spring" for the sp midvalve. The stock spring is stiffer which causes the mg to close quicker...harsher. this is the spiking you feel. Also the mg stack should look like this:
3-24x1
2-20x1
1-16
1-14
1-12
Set you float gap at .90 to 1.1mm.
Setting float also helps establish where you forks ride in the stroke. Play with the float to achieve balance.

Remove a 18 on the rebound stack

Base valve:
3-24
1-18
2-24
1-22
1-20
1-18
1-16
1-14
1-12
1-10
remove bottom support washer.(this prevents the shims from opening to full capacity if needed.

Be sure to set your clickers in the middle for intial testing. Once you establish a balanced feel from setting your float then you can adjust from there.

Rob

[Synergy-Seals]

Factory connection sells a" light spring" for the WP midvalve. The stock spring is stiffer which causes the mg to close quicker...harsher. this is the spiking you feel. Also the mg stack should look like this:
3-24x1
2-20x1
1-16
1-14
1-12
Set you float gap at .90 to 1.1mm.
Setting float also helps establish where you forks ride in the stroke. Play with the float to achieve balance.

Remove a 18 on the rebound stack

Base valve:
3-24
1-18
2-24
1-22
1-20
1-18
1-16
1-14
1-12
1-10
remove bottom support washer.(this prevents the shims from opening to full capacity if needed.

Be sure to set your clickers in the middle for intial testing. Once you establish a balanced feel from setting your float then you can adjust from there.

Rob

[Synergy-Seals]

Oops. This was supposed to be in the suspension thread under 43mm forks