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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #31  
Old 08-28-2014, 08:48 AM
@enrico@ @enrico@ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkwdc View Post
Ok I see it now. . 175
Try a 180. Get rid of the needle and get a NEDW set at #2
Thank you for the answer but I'll jump to 185 looking for the right direction.

The actual color of the plug after short uphill at 3/4 or more ( non wot ) is not meaning little poorness so I'd like to see dark brown....then reducing in MJ.

But I've never read anyone using a mj bigger than 175 with this needle ( N1EF )

The mileage is about 9 - 10.5 Km/l according to the track.


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  #32  
Old 08-28-2014, 05:20 PM
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The stock needle is the problem. You've lifted the clip to #2 to clean up the lower to mid, which has left it lean in the mid to 3/4 range. You may find a 178 main helps too (check after you've set the float). But overall, the taper profile of the stock needle doesn't work very well. I'd try an NEDW # 3 based in what you have said.
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  #33  
Old 08-29-2014, 03:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
The stock needle is the problem. You've lifted the clip to #2 to clean up the lower to mid, which has left it lean in the mid to 3/4 range. You may find a 178 main helps too (check after you've set the float). But overall, the taper profile of the stock needle doesn't work very well. I'd try an NEDW # 3 based in what you have said.
The bike was tuned by an official Gas Gas Italia racing mechanic, directly by the importer from which I have served.
So I'm a bit surprised by this problem that I hope is only carburetion and not suction air Junk (brand new bike).

I've tested also an half clip leaner needle ( NOZF AND NOZH ) in the same groove and in fact the plug color was more white ( if it's possible ).
I've got an NECJ ( half clip leaner than your suggested ) but I'd like to know its profile shape vs NOZX or N1EX. Unfortunately on the Jd jetting sheet is not included.

Are you sure your suggested isn't an half clip different from other known needle?

Any case jumping to 185 mj cover the mid top also and the MJ is very easy to find than needles.

Last one...in my hold pwk on HUsky wr 250 the best was DDJ needle in the mid range precisely because of its high angle of progression that is not found in the oem needles.

Bye
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  #34  
Old 08-29-2014, 03:30 AM
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The stock needle is 3 tapers. It starts with a very short straight section, progresses into a rich first taper, then an alight mid, and the last supplies good fuel towards WOT.

The problem is that the short straight means the diameter has very little effect. Most people turn the idle screw in so far that they are actually fuelling from the first taper. The first taper is rich which gives poor throttle 0-1/4 throttle so most will lift the clip to lean it out, which then sets the second taper up to be too lean when opening the throttle more (as you typically do under loads).

Going to a different needle with a leaner first taper lets you drop the clip position richer to give a clean bottom end, without falling lean in the mid. Top is around the same.

With your half clip leaner in the same clip, it just made you leaner, which is why the plug read whiter.
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  #35  
Old 08-29-2014, 04:07 AM
@enrico@ @enrico@ is offline
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I know all you sad but I do not share when you say rich first taper ecc....

N8rx has a richer first taper than N1Ex.

Then the taper are the same until N1Ex has its third taper much richer than last second taper of N8Rx.

The first taper on triple taper needles "eat" part of straight section so they're richer just out of straight than the same diameter two taper needle that is still in straight at the same throttle opening.

So I ask if you know the profile shape of you suggested needle because if the tapers are the same and starts in the same point ( or half clip different ) they're useless.

The rule is: the thicker the diameter and the shorter the straight section.
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  #36  
Old 08-29-2014, 05:28 AM
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The suzuki NExx series needles are comparable to the N1Ex/NOZx only on the 2nd and 3rd tapers. The 1st (from clip end) is thicker (leaner)

I've ran N3EJ/N3CJ/NEDJ/NECJ/NOZJ all with the same pilot in the same bike. I had to run the N1Ex on the top clip here to get the bike to run OK, and it still got poor fuel ecomony and spooged heavily. The N1Ex and NOZx over fuel off idle with these bikes.

My suggestion is simply to spend some time experimenting with other needles and see what you find for yourself. Or you could just throw a huge main at the current setup. We are in different parts of the world, possibly using different quality fuels so all that plays into it as well. Only you can work out what will work.

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  #37  
Old 08-29-2014, 05:45 AM
@enrico@ @enrico@ is offline
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Thank you very much.
So I understand suzuki needles has a different first taper ( leaner ).

I'll test my NECJ 3# but first I test the float correction, after huge main, last suzuki needle

Have a nice day
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  #38  
Old 08-29-2014, 06:01 AM
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No worries. Also, with the much leaner diameter you might find you'll need a 42 pilot, and if the idle seems high initially be sure to drop the slide back down (idle screw out).
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  #39  
Old 10-02-2018, 07:59 AM
Wypipo Wypipo is offline
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Has anything changed for setting the float height for newer models? Still the same measurement?
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  #40  
Old 10-02-2018, 08:45 PM
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Believe they still run the same shallow bowl design. Measurements should be the same.
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