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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #1  
Old 12-15-2011, 11:45 PM
drn51 drn51 is offline
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Default Best setup for ec300 2011 in hard enduro

Pretty new here and at GG family, just picks up ec 300 2011 riding in very tight woods, rocks...
After reading a lot of post, I see that the most common tip is to use higher gear and lug it...
But in some place putting the 3rd or even the 2nd gear isnt fit to the specific area and the motor is run away without rotating the throttle.
What is the best setup to smooth the power, and create linear motor?
Jetting? reed spacer? Power valve?

Currently running with everything stock, sea level, 20 degree Celsius
Thanks.


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Old 12-16-2011, 01:17 AM
swazi_matt swazi_matt is offline
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welcome to the site ... and the GG family!

for tight extreme riding i would suggest hyde skid plate and p3 exhaust guard, the revalve the suspension, you may find it a bit harsh if you ride lots of rocks, then what i have done to the gearing is i just dropped to a 12 front sproket, that gives me plenty low down in first for steep pull offs, but i find now that i do a lot of climbs in second

enjoy
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:55 AM
tnttimber tnttimber is offline
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G2 throttle with the 400 cam.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:43 AM
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HuskyDude HuskyDude is offline
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Welcome DRN51,
Like Matt has stated in his post, recommend some guards. Maybe take a look at some type of protection for your hands if riding among trees. Bark Busters, Acerbis have a good selection. I also went with the Bonz mounts they fit nicely. I went with a larger sprocket on the rear and also find 1st gear not used much, but is still there if needed. You might find yourself coming up short on some fire roads but well worth the trade off. Maybe a pull strap. Suspension work I felt was needed on the 2010 but not sure about the 2011. Maybe someone else will add. Setting up your bike for your style of riding really is a personal quest and will vary wider amount riders.

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Old 12-16-2011, 01:24 PM
drn51 drn51 is offline
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thanks forthe feedbacks guys!

of course I will pay attenation for the protection and guards, but what is most concern me is the linearity of the motor that i dont know how start to deal with this.
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:17 PM
boyscout boyscout is offline
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I would say the pipe and silencer combo that comes stock on the 2011's is pretty linear to begin with. if you want it smoother the last thing you would want is to gear it down, but personally i geared it down two teeth in the rear- it works well for me. There are some silencers out there that will let it rev out a little quicker but it doesn't sound like thats what you want. Id ride it for a couple of events before changing anything up too much as practice is never as intense as racing.
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:18 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Jetting 101! Have a look in the jetting section. Theres thread upon thread. First check to see if you have a 38mm carb or 36mm and then grab a few needles and start playing! These carbs are very sensitive to change and effect on power delivery.
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Old 12-24-2011, 02:07 AM
drn51 drn51 is offline
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ok thanks,can i have recomend basic jetting setup to start with him?
tecnichal ride, sea level, 20 degree Celsius
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Old 12-24-2011, 09:44 AM
boyscout boyscout is offline
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First you need to determine whether you have a 36mm or 38mm carb. It is on top of the carb in a small round indention, from there jakobi will have you sorted.
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:01 AM
swazi_matt swazi_matt is offline
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Just my opinion here, but doesn't the new bike come with sea level jetting?
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