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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing. |
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#1
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Swingarm axle question???
I have an '05 250 I am trying to remove the swingarm axle on. I have removed the the pull-rods and the nut on the axle(sprocket side). Even after all of that, the axle seems to be froze in place. I have even attempted to use a dead blow and the axle does not even as much as budge. I can't seem to see anything else holding it in place. I did see that the linkage block does run through the swingarm but I can't see that holding it in. Any ideas?
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#2
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It may be seized on the swingarm bearings (T-shaped collars). Use a liberal amount of penetrating oil and let it soak overnight. If you have not done it yet, remove the rear wheel, linkage, rear shock, subframe and airbox. This will give you full access to the swingarm pivot. Then, apply the penetrating oil on every mating surface across the swingarm pivot.
By the way, the right side of the frame has a bit of weld that keeps the swingarm axle from rotating. The swingarm axle head is D-shaped and engages with the weld spot. Perhaps the axle head rotated a bit and it caught on the weld. I don't it but it may be worth a look. DO NOT grind away the weld... it needs to be there for assembly purposes. You will eventually get the axle out. Just be patient and keep us posted on the progress. When reassembling, make sure you apply anti-seize on the axle and it will be very easy the next time around.
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Matt Current: 2009 Yamaha FZ1 Previous: 2001 GasGas TXT280, 2001 GasGas XC250, 2004 KTM 200EXC, 2007 GasGas EC250, 2007 Husqvarna SM610, 2008 Husqvarna WB165 |
#3
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Recently been through this and had to beat the crap out of it to get it shifted. Of course this meant I needed a new swing arm axl as the end was belled out by the beating and the nut wouldn't go back on. I'd left it 2 years and the bearings had corroded so only had myself to blame. A year seems to be the longest you can leave it without trouble. It just a PITA job so gets ignored. I think the trick is a couple of wacks with a large lump hammer and suitable drift. A lot of small wacks with a lighter hammer doesn't seem to work.
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#4
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To prevent this, I would loosen the axle nut and leave it threaded on (towards the end). Then, hit against the axle nut to drive the axle out. I do this on my wheel axles too. It protects the axle threads and prevents the end distortion like you described.
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Matt Current: 2009 Yamaha FZ1 Previous: 2001 GasGas TXT280, 2001 GasGas XC250, 2004 KTM 200EXC, 2007 GasGas EC250, 2007 Husqvarna SM610, 2008 Husqvarna WB165 |
#5
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I do the same thing. I loosen the nut just enough to let the axle move a bit, while keeping as many threads in the nut as possible. Then I give a good whack with a dead blow hammer.
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#6
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I had one stuck pretty bad. I ran a tap in the D spaded end used a long piece of all tread, a pipe big enough for the the pivot bolt to run through a nut and washer too big to go through the pipe. Screw the all tread in to the right side of the pivot boltslide the pipe over the alltread put the washer and nut on and just tighten. I believe the tap was a 3/8" I didn't even need to drill the hole out any. The nice thing about this is if it ever happens again its 10 times easier.
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#7
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Anti-seize when new and it always comes out easy. I have some aluminum rod, about 1/2" dia., that I use as a drift.
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#8
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Well it finally came out with a little extra persuasion from a 5lb sledge. I had to get the bike back home, so I greased the axle and put it back through. When I re-installed the axle it seemed to favor the back of the hole on the chain side as if the axle was not allowed to run true. I am questioning if one of the bearings blew up and it is not supporting the axle. I will know more when I put new swingarm bearings in. Nothing seems to bind when I action the swingarm?
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#9
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Quote:
Last edited by iancp5; 03-29-2007 at 08:26 AM. |
#10
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