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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
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ongoing clutch trouble
Hey Guys,
I posted about this problem last summer and i thought I had it fixed but I guess not. My clutch seems to not be working. When I put it in gear bike it will die. When turned off I can not push the bike in gear with clutch engaged. Its like the clutch isnt even there. I bled the system to check for air bubbles came out clean. I drained tranny oil, took off clutch cover, took out all plates to inspect. Plates look ok, basket has some marks but no major snags that would catch a plate. With clutch assembled but clutch cover off: When I pull the clutch lever the pressure plate moves only the tiniest bit. Doesn't look like it would be enough to give the plates room to seperate when engine is running. So im thinking it is some kind of problem with the hydralic action past the lever. Like it isnt pushing on the pressure plate hard enough. If you are looking at the plates doesn anyone know about how much the presssure plate should pop out when you engage the clutch? What parts can I be replacing besides the main clutch master res.? Is there another part that could have gone bad past where the clutch line attaches to the engine? Thanks, Sam |
#2
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try rebudiling the clutch slave cylinder, maybe the seal is bad and the fluid is bypassing it
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#3
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thanks I got 2 used ones headed my way. update to follow
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#4
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If U go to ajpamerica.com, even though it is a trials website, U will glean some good info about our clutch unit and how everything works, from the mc at top all the way down to the slave cylinder. One thing I learned is it works much better to back bleed your system. They have a youtube section which explains how to do this. Gravity is working against U as far as the air bubbles are concerned.
They also have a readable text explaining all the things that could potentially cause clutch drag (not fully disengaging). Very good info. Hope this helps.
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'14 Beta 300rr '05 GG DE300 '03 GG EC250 '01 XR440 '09 FZ1 |
#5
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Quote:
I call it my "pipe bomb" but it works real good. I originally made it for automotive use. You can actually buy them if you want to pay the price. Back-bleeding works real well. Just don't push too much at once (take it easy!)
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jeff '00 XC250 (mine) LTS front and rear suspension, power valve cover, carb jet kit and rear chain glide, RB Designs head mod, BRP tall triple clamp, backyard foot-peg lowering conversion. '04 EC250 (the kids) (he can do his own mods haha!) |
#6
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i watched the video on ajp's website, seems very complete and easy.
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03 ec250 hyde skidplate, cycra handguads, protaper contours "what? it seemed like a good idea at the time!" |
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