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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #1  
Old 05-20-2012, 01:31 PM
mlyle11 mlyle11 is offline
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Default Front Axle Installation Process

I am blatently plagerizing a post by the once again wise Jakobi... his comments from a prior post are below:

The real way is to make sure the forks are aligned and don't bind when compressed.

We'll use the view from standing infront of the bike looking back towards it. The brake is on the RHS, the axel inserts on the left. Follow these steps

1. Insert axel from LHS.
2. RHS axel bolt tightened to spec.
3. If axel spins before spec, which it probably will, tighten LHS pinch bolts, and tighten axel to spec.
4. Tighten RHS pinch bolts
Note: RHS is mounted firmly between spacers and axel block. It should be all tucked in nicely.
5. Ensure LHS pinch bolts are loosened, and that the axel block can float on the axel. (you may need to open up the axel block a little).
6. Let the LHS fork leg align itself to its natural position on the axel.
-Can bounce the suspension
-Can spin the wheel and pull the brakes
-Can physically move the axel block by hand
7. Tighten the LHS pinch bolts.
8. Check all bolts are at spec and that forks aren't binding.
9. Ride on!

I am following this process and have a question on #2. When tightening the axle nut, as the expected result the axle becoming flush with outer edje of the fork bottom? See attached picture. When I reach torque the axle is not pulled through flush, and I assume this is as intended as all the slack has been taken out on the LHS.

New pinch bolts on order... plan to see blue smoke yet today!
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File Type: jpg DSCF1995.jpg (106.2 KB, 45 views)


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  #2  
Old 05-20-2012, 06:32 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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I've never looked at it from that end but it looks right to me Mlyle. To the left of your picture is what is important. The alu spacer must be fitting firmly against the axel block and the hub.

From memory the stepped lip at the other end of the axel will then pull against the spacer on the other side. I can run downstairs and drop a new set of brake pads in and take a photo if you really need it checked, but logic tells me it doesn't pull even or the nut would effectively be doing nothing, and that something stops the action of the axel or you'd be able to pull it right through the right hand side.

As per above post you copy/pasted. From the front of the bike the LHS axel block floats on the thicker part of the axel. The hub and spacers should all align with zero play, starting from hard up against the RHS axel block.
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2012, 07:55 PM
mlyle11 mlyle11 is offline
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All seems good. The spec is torque to 38 ft/lbs. I went to 20 then 5 pound incriments to 35. I stoped there.
The LHS was practically flush, it had free float travel of a few mm each way. I moved it back and forth, spun the wheel, grabbed brake, jounced the suspension, and then found the "sweet spot" in the few mm of travel.

She is almost togther. All thats left now mount exhaust, tank, seat, bolt on the plastic, fill the rad, fresh mix, fingers crossed, and ring, ning, ning, ning, ning.....
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