needle question

[stainlesscycle]

i'm running a ddk needle, and was contemplating a switch to cck or ccj - jetting is perfect at 60 degrees plus, but i get a hesitation/lack of power at 40-60 degrees 0-1/4 throttle, and when i really whack the throttle. for example dead engine start - wot - 2nd gear. when i kick it at 60 degrees + it snaps to life instantly and i get a killer start. when below 60 degrees it hesitates then snaps to life, which can be unpredictable (giant wheelie...) i'd prefer to not rejet, and just use a needle that will work better all over... this weekend i started at 10am and it was cold (30 degrees) and bike was frustrating/hesitant/lack of power when i really needed it on hill climb bottoms and at the start....once the temperature rose, jetting was right on.

here's the problem:
i run 2 series - 1 starts at 10am, and 1 starts at noon. the temperature differential is drastic enough that my on the edge jetting is just lean enough to be weak at the earlier in the day temperatures... if i change my pilot from 42 to 45 to compensate it's too rich when it's hotter.

i need to get every bit of hp i can outta the 200. swapping in a 300 motor is my next step, but i'd much rather have a 200 that would make my life easier later in the races... but i think the 250 motor is more like the 200 motor, and would be better for my style (snappy and on the pipe as much as possible...i can't really lug a 200 i don't like to run in the lower rev ranges until it gets technical..) the 450 4t's have a big advantage over me in the big straights...

on another note : i know it's a long race, and the start is just a small portion of a race, but i'll tell you what, where else can you get past your whole class and not fight for position all day than having a giant holeshot? you don't get tangled up when you enter the woods first and alone i'm not as experienced, smooth, and as fast as the dudes in my class (they all have 30+ years racing experience on me..the 40+ classes have a lot of experience..many times guys in my class finish top 10 overall) i need all the help i can get

[webmaster]

1. What is your pilot jet?
2. What is your current idle screw setting?
3. What is your current air screw setting?
4. What # slide?

thx,
jeff
webmaster
GasGas Riders Club

[stainlesscycle]

42pj
172 mj
#7 slide
1.5 air screw

[webmaster]

Where is your idle adjuster at? Is it turned in to where it is almost coil binding the spring that tensions it?

Thanks,
jeff

[stainlesscycle]

not currently. it had that problem in the past, i raised the needle 1 position to overcome it..
see here:

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6521

[webmaster]

In my opinion, you would be better off lowering the needle - and back to the 45 pilot and note that the air screw range on this carb is up to 3 turns out - so go 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out. Or send your carb to Ron at RB-Designs to have him "fix" the low speed sensitivity issue that the carb has - he modifies the jet block internally.

You want to seperate the low speed and nozzle/needle circuits more cleanly. More fuel from pilot and less fuel from needle. Then after you get them cleanly seperated and get a good baseline - then you can use the correction factor charts in the owners manual to adjust main/pilot jets for altitude and temperature.

jeff
webmaster
GasGas Riders Club

[stainlesscycle]

when i go to 45 pilot and raise needle i get the idle issue (when warm won't idle..unless i turn the idle screw all the way in, and in affect disable the pilot...) i don't want constant stalling on long downhills.

[webmaster]

Just want to make sure we are on the same page - are you raising the needle by going to a lower clip position?

I am saying you should lower the needle (leaner) and go to a higher clip position on the needle. When it's dialed in right - it will idle more strongly and not stall.

Relative to stalling on downhills - the float setting should not be set slightly low to avoid flooding on downhills.

jeff

[webmaster]

I just gave les a call to get his input on the 200 - I have experience jetting my 300 (which was his R & D bike).

His advice is as follows :

1. DDK needle is fine - but you will want to be richer on pilot - 48-50 pilot particularly with #7 slide.
2. Start out in center clip position on needle until you have idle circuit sorted out. Then go to #2 clip position (#1 is top clip position).
3. Go to a #5 slide.
4. Pick up a 36mm carb - the 38mm doesn't have high enough velocity to be happy on a 200. Just looking on flea-bay - these aren't hard to find as most think that bigger is better.
5. Set float level before any other adjustments to 18mm or more (lower than spec'ed stock setting).

Good luck and since I still have some more time off after my open heart surgery - I'll get a banner ad up and running for your website...

thanks,
Jeff
Webmaster
GasGas Riders Club

[stainlesscycle]

not quite following this logic.

try 48/#2 first and see what happens?


if ok, switch to #5 slide?