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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #21  
Old 10-20-2020, 04:04 PM
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gg3 gg3 is offline
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You would smell it,it really stinks.Float level right? Doesn't leak fuel on the side stand with fuel tap on? I had a 2010 that was alway rich until I got the floats & fuel stopper needle thing working correctly.Would run good some days & blubbery another.Terrible fuel economy.


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  #22  
Old 10-20-2020, 04:28 PM
Louis069 Louis069 is offline
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Originally Posted by gg3 View Post
You would smell it,it really stinks.Float level right? Doesn't leak fuel on the side stand with fuel tap on? I had a 2010 that was alway rich until I got the floats & fuel stopper needle thing working correctly.Would run good some days & blubbery another.Terrible fuel economy.
Yea I have check the float height and set it to 17mm l also put a small bottle under the overflow and there was a minimal amount of fuel in the bottle only about 20ml after a ride so dont think that's the issue now
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  #23  
Old 10-20-2020, 06:08 PM
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That would have been too easy.
Which throttle positions is it boggey at,or is it across the whole range?
So when at full operating temp. how does it run-
Idle-
1/4-
1/2-
3/4 to full-
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  #24  
Old 10-21-2020, 12:10 AM
Louis069 Louis069 is offline
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Originally Posted by gg3 View Post
That would have been too easy.
Which throttle positions is it boggey at,or is it across the whole range?
So when at full operating temp. how does it run-
Idle-
1/4-
1/2-
3/4 to full-
The problem is im not really sure how its supposed to be running as its my first 2 stroke. Every time I get a improvement, I think wow this is way better. not knowing that it was bad before. However even i could tell it was shocking on the n1ef needle.

So my best geuss is this
Idle- it idles ok-ish in neutral but it sometimes will stall on low speed single track and the air screw seems to have little effect on idle.
1/4 - i think it could be a lot cleaner here it will load up a bit unless i open the throttle more
1/2- Its ok but still a bit sluggish on it
3/4 to full- It seems ok here it pulls ok, but it did improve when i went from clip 2 to clip 1 on the n3eg needle

Over all it is easy to tell it could be a LOT cleaner. Whatever jetting i use it always seems to be too rich overall.
so far i have only just got it to pull a power wheelie in 3rd gear. It will do one easily in 2nd though. with 13/50 gearing
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Old 10-22-2020, 01:10 AM
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Tricky when you don't know what previous owners have been up to!
Things to check if not already done.
Choke- is it closing off fully.
Power Valve- it had a top end done.If not re-assembled correctly & operating smoothly it will give you all sorts of misleading power feed back.
Pilot circuit- Should be easy to sort that out.As Jeff suggested,back idle screw out,get it up to operating temp & play with air screw to get most responsive.If it makes no change,change pilot jet & try again.The one you have should be about right or richer.
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  #26  
Old 10-22-2020, 02:07 AM
Louis069 Louis069 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gg3 View Post
Tricky when you don't know what previous owners have been up to!
Things to check if not already done.
Choke- is it closing off fully.
Power Valve- it had a top end done.If not re-assembled correctly & operating smoothly it will give you all sorts of misleading power feed back.
Pilot circuit- Should be easy to sort that out.As Jeff suggested,back idle screw out,get it up to operating temp & play with air screw to get most responsive.If it makes no change,change pilot jet & try again.The one you have should be about right or richer.
I did the top end myself and gave the powervalve a clean while i was at it. Afterwards i started the bike with the right hand powervalve cover off to check it and when i revved the bike i could see it opening and closing so dont think thats the issue.
Haven't noticed any issues with the choke seems to operate as normal but may be worth checking
As far as jetting goes i am convinced it must be something wrong with my carb as when i put the n3eg on clip 1 which is on the lean side of things and it still seems a bit rich on it

F5 has kindly sent his spare carb in the mail so if that works then we know the carb body is the issue
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  #27  
Old 10-22-2020, 03:24 AM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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Being on clip 1 shows that something isn't right. I recommend two things. First check your needle jet, they get worn over time and are not replaceable.

If that is OK, get the carb cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.

If you get no reaction on the air screw try following:


-warm up engine
-set air screw to 1.5 turns
-turn in idle screw until engine rpm raises and it is running faster than usual
-open/close air screw in small steps and see where it idles fastest
-once it idles fastest let the air screw as it is and turn idle down with idle screw


That way you determine if the pilot jet size is OK. If the air screw is open more than 2.75 turns reduce jet size one step, if air screw is less than 1 turn out use next bigger pilot jet.

edit: just seen that a test carb is on its way to you. Try that one first...

Good luck!

Doc
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  #28  
Old 11-08-2020, 02:00 AM
Louis069 Louis069 is offline
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Finally got to try out the new carb F5 sent yesterday and it went great, used half as much fuel and there was no loading up or spluttering i was running 40 pilot 175 main and N3EG on clip 2. It used half as much fuel and gained more power mainly 2/3rd to full throttle but it ran noticibly cleaner and smoother everywhere.

I pulled the plug out at the end and it was what i would call a brownish tan maybe a tad rich but id rather that than lean. So i think ill leave it at that for the moment at least.
Thanks for all your help
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  #29  
Old 11-08-2020, 02:33 PM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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Glad you got it sorted!
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  #30  
Old 11-09-2020, 03:01 AM
brads1725 brads1725 is offline
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What are all the details from the carb F5 sent you?
I have a similar thing, when it's hot its fine, free revving all over. But if I do low down work on a tight trail and then hit a fire road it splutters for a gear or 2 then is fine.
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