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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #21  
Old 08-16-2019, 12:15 AM
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SS109 SS109 is offline
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Just curious, what exact oil are you using? Is it motorcycle wet clutch spec'ed oil?


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  #22  
Old 08-16-2019, 12:41 AM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS109 View Post
Just curious, what exact oil are you using? Is it motorcycle wet clutch spec'ed oil?
So far I have tried:
Nils 10/40 (thats what GasGas fills ex factory)
Motul 15/50 and 15/60 (as I thought oil that is thicker when hot reduces squawking)
Amsoil Dirt Bike 10/50 (designed for extra clutch feel and protection)
Putoline Nanotrans GP (24 per quart, very thin, very expensive but had worst clutch feel)

All of the above are motorcycle oils for use with wet clutches.
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  #23  
Old 08-16-2019, 12:45 AM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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Originally Posted by Gasser Nate View Post
Don?t be afraid to try motorcycle engine oil too. It does the same job of lubricating the gears and the clutch. Often you can get a good quality synthetic oil in bulk for a lot cheaper.
I tried various mc oils already, its not a question of the price. To be honest I have no clue what else could help but got a hint on TT forum and maybe will give this a try.

Today I will try Motul Gear Trans 10/40 that is what a German racing team uses but I don't think it will change anything. maybe i will drill some extra holes in the pressure plate, that is what helped someone else on a KTM and is worth a try...
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  #24  
Old 08-16-2019, 02:17 PM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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Short update:

I drilled 12 holes, similar to what a guy showed me in the Dirtrider_net forum

This is how I drilled the holes (5.5 mm):

Pressure plate outside






Pressure plate inside






I decided to make some "keyholes" on the outer holes so that oil can easier get to the discs.





I filled fresh oil and then warmed the bike up and started in 4th and 5th gear with lots of clutch*feathering and I really let it scream. No noises so far, but a serious test will follow next week in the woods. I also measure the throwout and its good and like it should be, when the clutch*is pulled I can see the plate lifts fine.

Unfortunately the dragging problem is back. Talked to an experienced motor cycle engineer and he said the plates are sticking, probably they are a few thou too thick. He said ride the damn thing or get a new set OEM friction disks. Its definitely a problem caused by the plates...

Will keep you updated. Thanks for the help guys, you are great !!!
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  #25  
Old 08-17-2019, 01:49 AM
Pygmygod Pygmygod is offline
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Dunno if you've already tried this - but if you take out the steel plates and lay them flat on a piece of glass can you wobble them? Or do they sit perfectly flat?

This should show if any of the steel plates are warped.
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  #26  
Old 08-17-2019, 12:52 PM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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Originally Posted by Pygmygod View Post
Dunno if you've already tried this - but if you take out the steel plates and lay them flat on a piece of glass can you wobble them? Or do they sit perfectly flat?

This should show if any of the steel plates are warped.
Thank you! Yes, though I bought a set of new ones I checked them and they were -as I expected- perfectly straight.
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  #27  
Old 08-20-2019, 09:24 AM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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For the physicians who may read here.

One of my ideas to get rid of the clutch drag my bike has when engine is hot and has been turned off for a period longer 20 seconds, was to use a longer clutch push rod or add a washer under the throwout bearing.

After I had postet this in another forum one of the guys said that wont change anything and I am sure he is right. because the added length would be eaten up by the slave piston just traveling back in its cylinder for exactly the amount the rod has been lengthened.

Then I read (here) that some guys used a CRF clutch and to compensate the stack height used a thinner washer between clutch basket and hub.

Thinking that over I come to the conclusion that wont work with my bike either. The thinner washer would move the hub back relative to the push rod. Thats true, but only as long as the pressure plate isn't installed. As soon as I put the pressure plate on the push rod would be pushed back its normal way plus the amount of the reduced spacer. So my ordered spacers are best used as paper weights.

What can I do to get more lift or in other words what can I modify so that the push rod will lift the pressure plate 0,5mm or so more?

Only idea I have is getting thinner steels....
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  #28  
Old 08-20-2019, 08:47 PM
rvangeel rvangeel is offline
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Default Severe clutch problem EC 300 2019

What about a Rekluse adjustable slave cylinder? Maybe give them a call. I’ve heard great things about their tech support.
The one problem with the adjustable slave when not using the Rekluse clutch pack is that it might not adjust back far enough as it meant to always hold the clutch disengaged when the engine stopped.

Or just spring for a Rekluse auto clutch or even manual clutch (if they make a manual clutch for the GG)




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  #29  
Old 08-20-2019, 11:02 PM
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Gasser Nate Gasser Nate is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Brown View Post
For the physicians who may read here.

One of my ideas to get rid of the clutch drag my bike has when engine is hot and has been turned off for a period longer 20 seconds, was to use a longer clutch push rod or add a washer under the throwout bearing.

After I had postet this in another forum one of the guys said that wont change anything and I am sure he is right. because the added length would be eaten up by the slave piston just traveling back in its cylinder for exactly the amount the rod has been lengthened.

Then I read (here) that some guys used a CRF clutch and to compensate the stack height used a thinner washer between clutch basket and hub.

Thinking that over I come to the conclusion that wont work with my bike either. The thinner washer would move the hub back relative to the push rod. Thats true, but only as long as the pressure plate isn't installed. As soon as I put the pressure plate on the push rod would be pushed back its normal way plus the amount of the reduced spacer. So my ordered spacers are best used as paper weights.

What can I do to get more lift or in other words what can I modify so that the push rod will lift the pressure plate 0,5mm or so more?

Only idea I have is getting thinner steels....
You can get a master cylinder with a bigger bore size. It?ll make the lever slightly heavier though.
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  #30  
Old 08-21-2019, 03:27 AM
taylor146 taylor146 is offline
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Hi,
Are you using the standard clutch lever? When the lever tip hits the grip is there more movement possible in the master cylinder to give more movement in the clutch pack? Maybe modify the shape of the lever
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