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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 02-15-2018, 03:13 PM
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It takes more mineral oil in your fuel mix to give the same protection as synthetic so you don't necessarily save money by using a non-synthetic. My personal guide for mixing fuel is at 36/1 for mineral oil(Yammalube), 43/1 for semi-synthetic(Klotz), and 60/1 for full synthetic(Amsoil Dominator or Intercepter). In the 300 gasser the oils flashpoint is very important if you like to lug the bike or ride tight technical terrain. Chose an oil with a flashpoint below 100 degrees centigrade (210 fahrenheit). You can research a specific oil online to find it's flashpoint under technical details. A high flashpoint oil like Motul 800 will load up your engine and exhaust and cause it to run crappy at best or foul plugs at worst.


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Old 02-15-2018, 04:49 PM
swazi_matt swazi_matt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasser View Post
It takes more mineral oil in your fuel mix to give the same protection as synthetic so you don't necessarily save money by using a non-synthetic. My personal guide for mixing fuel is at 36/1 for mineral oil(Yammalube), 43/1 for semi-synthetic(Klotz), and 60/1 for full synthetic(Amsoil Dominator or Intercepter). In the 300 gasser the oils flashpoint is very important if you like to lug the bike or ride tight technical terrain. Chose an oil with a flashpoint below 100 degrees centigrade (210 fahrenheit). You can research a specific oil online to find it's flashpoint under technical details. A high flashpoint oil like Motul 800 will load up your engine and exhaust and cause it to run crappy at best or foul plugs at worst.
And this is why I prefer the 710 (just didn’t know it)
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Old 02-17-2018, 05:42 PM
motopsycho87 motopsycho87 is offline
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No it doesn't

Quantity of oil is as important as quality. Remember that it serves to provide a barrier between the piston and bore, by way of oil film, the only way that is achievable is by having a decent quantity of oil, the quality determines how quickly it breaks down and how clean it burns.

What is on the cylinder will be scraped off by the rings on the next stroke. Oil does not magically seep into the nikasil and pop back out when the rings have passed it.

Once again, many dyno runs have proven more oil is better, it reduces friction and promotes better ring sealing.

If your bike starts smoking like a pig at 32:1, then you need to look at your jetting. Fact.

I have no loading up issues in the woods and my bike gets its neck wrung at the Motocross track. Barely any ring wear after 2 years riding between 5-10 hours a week. And bugger all smoke when warm.
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 42/162 NECJ#1, DEP spanny, FMF power core, .46 front 5.4 rear

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  #14  
Old 02-17-2018, 05:49 PM
motopsycho87 motopsycho87 is offline
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https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...b5KjB_0KMsmzjh

Old but still relevant.

And another

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/archive...p/t-53212.html

And another

http://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm


Just because you run expensive oil in your car doesn't mean you expect it to run on 1 litre...
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 42/162 NECJ#1, DEP spanny, FMF power core, .46 front 5.4 rear

2002 EC300 Supermoto - Ignitech CDI - 38/165 NEDJ#1 Inox spanny, FMF power core, .50 front 5.7 rear
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  #15  
Old 02-18-2018, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motopsycho87 View Post
No it doesn't

Quantity of oil is as important as quality. Remember that it serves to provide a barrier between the piston and bore, by way of oil film, the only way that is achievable is by having a decent quantity of oil, the quality determines how quickly it breaks down and how clean it burns.

What is on the cylinder will be scraped off by the rings on the next stroke. Oil does not magically seep into the nikasil and pop back out when the rings have passed it.

Once again, many dyno runs have proven more oil is better, it reduces friction and promotes better ring sealing.

If your bike starts smoking like a pig at 32:1, then you need to look at your jetting. Fact.

I have no loading up issues in the woods and my bike gets its neck wrung at the Motocross track. Barely any ring wear after 2 years riding between 5-10 hours a week. And bugger all smoke when warm.
I bet if you were to come ride with me in the hills of Tennessee we could get your bike to smoke like a pig too if you run Motul 800 in a 300 2stroke no matter how well it's jetted. We have very rocky, technical hill climbs that will load up a bike thats burning a high flashpoint oil. Tennessee and much of the rest of the world has much steeper and rockier terrain than England (I lived there for 2 years). There is a multitude of good options for 2stroke oils and all seem to do a good job of protecting the motor if used properly which means enough oil for a given operating temperature. The required amount of oil can vary dramatically and is determined by the makeup of the oil - that's why oil companies put a maximum mix ratio on their oils. Just because the KTM or GasGas factory use a full synthetic at 60/1 or 50/1 ratio doesn't mean we can safely do the same with a mineral oil. I have years of experience running a semi-synthetic at 43/1 ratio (Klotz and Champion Water pumper), full synthetic at 50-60/1 (Amsoil Dominator and Intercepter, Motul 710), and even full synthetics designed for 100/1 ratio (Amsoil Saber which I ran at 80/1 in my 300 and 75/1 in my 250). I can't tell any difference in power or how well the engine wears.
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Old 02-23-2018, 12:43 PM
motopsycho87 motopsycho87 is offline
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Damn, may as well burn all my engineering qualifications and 2 stroke tuning books. An American has spoken...
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  #17  
Old 02-23-2018, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motopsycho87 View Post
Damn, may as well burn all my engineering qualifications and 2 stroke tuning books. An American has spoken...
That is not necessary or helpful. Do you have a counter technical view or opinion?
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  #18  
Old 02-23-2018, 06:52 PM
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2cents worth-I guess im old school but when people speak of 1:60 up to 1:100 oil ratios i think "hand grenade"
Id rather live with a little spooge (assuming jetting is close,it means some oil is unburnt upon leaving the engine...not that there is too much oil in the mix).
If there is no spooge at all then 100% of oil has combusted.Ash is a poor lubricant...
40:1 full synth a little spooge,no worrys
Very high flashpoint synth such as belray h1r are best for wot/mx applications,they will spooge more even if your jetting is perfect if you ride tight and technical.
Some lower flashpoint oils will also leave more residue on the plug (my own observation only)
I like castrol power1 tts @40:1 for "a bit of everything" riding.
Disclaimer,i dont have an engineering degree,but i read/research a lot,and have a decent amount of exp from chainsaws to tractors.LOL a kiwi has spoken!
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:13 PM
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Default 2stroke oil

I have run klotz r50 40:1 great. little spooge no big deal great film on internals when doing top ends
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  #20  
Old 02-24-2018, 01:56 AM
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I run Klotz SuperTechniplate 40:1 in my EC300 2001.
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