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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#11
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I have now replaced the main bearings and on receipt of me new gasket set tomozz i will continue rebuilding it.. At least once it is back to gether for my piece of mind i know it is mechanically sound in the crankcase.. thanks darren |
#12
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Update.
The engine is now back together i completely stripped it and replaced the main bearings and all seals/gaskets. All of the other bearings looked ok. i did not see any bushings in the transmission the bearings were needle roller or ball roller bearings. I did put the clutch basket in the vice (little gear). tried to turn the clutch basket back and forth as much as i could it did not move at all. I also replaced the pv bearings and cleaned out all carbon deposits. reassembled and checked adjustment. The noise is still there. I do wonder if Joey11 is correct and the clutch basket silent blocks are worn Im a bit stumped now although piece of mind prevails that the internal bearings and components are in good order (visibly) Does anybody know if the silent blocks and rivets are freely avaliable or do i need a new complete basket from gasgas.??? |
#13
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The Gas Gas Spain site has manuals that go back to 2000 and yes the dampers and rivets are available seperately. I assume your 98 would be the same but a call to the dealer would be wise.
What is the condition of the basket anyway? Any grooving on the fingers from years of use? If so you may want to replace it as it's 11 years old now. Did you replace the lower connecting rod bearing in the crank when the motor was appart? Hope so. Hey, you can always replace the basket assy. with the beauty on this link. Sweet! http://www.2tracing.it/public/SiTE/i...oli|divGASGAS|
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07 EC 300 (under 500 miles, selling soon) 97 KTM 250 EXC (sold) 2016 Trek Remedy 29er |
#14
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Did you replace the lower connecting rod bearing in the crank when the motor was appart? Hope so. On my 04 200 one of the crank stuffer screws backed out and fell into the motor, when I had it apart to repair the damage you could see where it rubbed on the rod before it fell out. It happened suddenly and I remember a knock just before it seized. I don't know if this was a problem on the 250's or 300's but I was told that year 200 mine wasn't the first. You can probably remove jug and piston and rotate crank and check for rub marks on the rod but so far as checking screws the crank will need to be split. Ron |
#15
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Now i did not replace the lower con rod bearing, the reason -- there was no movement or play in the bearing and the thrust was within tollerence. Also reading by the book it stated that the crank assembly comes as one unit and could not be split. Is this the case? |
#16
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The crank is pressed together so you have to send the crank off to a machine shop to have them perform this task.
Maybe some one here can guide you to a good shop that is used to doing that kind of work. Good Luck |
#17
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OK been out on the bike today it was running ok but then.............................a whinning noise from the engine i pulled to the side of track stopped the engine cut, now the engine will only just turn over very tight so i believe i have cooked it partial seizure bah.
when i stripped the engine last week the piston had some small scours which i wet and dried out but the ring gaps and all seemed ok. I shall strip and find out. |
#18
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Well on inspection the countershaft nut has come loose and fallen behind the clutch basket.
The crankshaft nut was loose too. Both nuts were torqued up as well looks like i will have to loctite these then the buggers wont come loose. |
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