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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc. |
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#11
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OK, I'm in NJ, and have jetted several of my 250s with AS1 carbs, including my new '12. First make sure the bike is sound. Good reeds, seals, PV opening correctly, compression, etc. Float level is correct. Slide should be #7, if by chance it is not, get one, a #6 will make things difficult. Next, forget about spooge, especially if you run a spark arrestor and double that if its a Stealth spooge trap. We jet the 250 by feel for torque, period. They like to be on the rich side for max torque, and WILL spooge. Also, much of the information here is relative to the newer AS2 carbs that tend to prefer much leaner jetting. IMO, the NEDW will be too lean, so don't rush out and order one. My experience with needles of the same straight diameter tell me this. Even the CCK is borderline in some 250s, and from my experience the AS1 equipped 250s prefer the richer D taper needles like a DDK or DEK. For the main, 180 should not be too rich with a fat tip needle like these. You could be flat on top from being slightly lean, not rich. I have gone as high as a 185 main and still had good top end. The best needle I have found for the 250 for our conditions is the JD Blue. Expensive kit but it really works well and makes great power throughout the range. You can start with a DDK and DEK (one half clip range apart) and get it very close.
Try this: 45 pilot DDK #3 182 main air screw 1.5 turns DEK #3 is a half clip leaner, DEK #4 a half clip richer for fine tuning. Go up on the main until it obviously rich and back down two sizes and you should be there. If you can get it pretty good like this, the JD Blue will drop in in clip #3 or #4 and it will be perfect. |
#12
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Okay thanks Glenn. I will try that set up. It could very well be lean I really wouldn't know the difference at this point. The only reason I was leaning towards rich was because it does get on the pipe and start screaming if I hold it WOT long enough (happened in sand pit, there is no trail that I have found where I could hold it WOT long enough to get it to clear out... that's how long it takes not to mention it sounds so awful I felt bad holding it WOT...)
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#13
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Glenn , is the jd blue needle the same in all the kits ,Or was it the red, i have one left over from a ktm a few years ago .
Rgds Chris |
#14
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Quote:
The kits come with both blue and red needles (rich and lean). |
#15
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Its the same in the old generic PWK kit as the new GG kits, thats for sure. It could be the same as the KTM kit needle, likely is, but only JD could tell you that. I emailed and asked, they told me, ask them.
Measure the straight diameter, it should be the same as a **K needle. |
#16
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Even if they are slightly different I'd be willing to give them a go. I have found just about all the other needles the pumpkin patches are running have swapped over into the Gasser with good results.
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#17
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I shoul be home this weekend , ill be sure to check 👍
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#18
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The needle is a jd red , side by side with the n1ef they are the same to about just under half way from the top down then the n1ef tapers off much slimmer
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#19
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The JD red is many sizes smaller in the diameter than the N1EF. Not visible to the eye though The last taper on the JD is much leaner though which is why you see people running large mains with it (178/180), while the stock bikes generally have around 172/175 mains.
From memory the Red needle is either a H/W diameter. |
#20
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If its a JD Red I'd put $$ down that its lean, because I have tried this needle in two different 250s. I had lean issues off the bottom as well from the lean straight dia. The needle has a large tip which controls fueling even wide open. Stay out of the sand WFO with this jetting!
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