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Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc.


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  #11  
Old 12-15-2007, 03:41 PM
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I looked at my 2K-3 stator (from an '03 EC250). Its EXACTLY the same as the KTM part shown in the Trailtech conversion.pdf. Wire colors, orientation, etc. In fact, even the stator plate appears to be the same with the exception being the edge is milled off the KTM part. The Trailtech stator should certainly go on the GG plate and work. I wouldn't doubt an entire KTM 2K-3 plate and all would fit in a GG.

Now, I'd like to see a KTM 2K-2 stator just for kicks to see if its the same. Opens doors for used parts if someone needs a stator in a hurry.
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2007, 05:48 PM
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I have the 2K2 in my bike right now. When I get it removed to
install my modified 2K3. I will post some pictures of it for a
comparison.... Might be a couple weeks though.
Jeff So.Cal.
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  #13  
Old 12-18-2007, 07:04 AM
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Jeff,

I have a 2K-2 as well. What I ment was I'd like to see a KTM application of a 2K-2 for comparison. With 35W its not a candidate for a DC conversion, but simply as an alternate spare part source. Never checked, but If the flywheel/crank tapers and timing were the same it would be too easy to beleive for those who want to do a 2K-2 conversion.

Matt should have a 2K-2 in his 200 EXC.
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  #14  
Old 12-18-2007, 02:25 PM
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So are you suggesting we find some friendly KTM owner to pull
his flywheel and take a picture for us? Measure the crankshaft
taper and compare it to a GasGas?
I have a friend with a 99 exc300 KTM. He might let me pull
off this test in the name of science.
Although this information might be available just for the asking,
if we knew who to ask.. KTM talk? maybe. One of our premier
GasGas mechanics?
Thanks everyone for your imput on this.
Jeff so.Cal
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  #15  
Old 12-18-2007, 07:59 PM
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Its just a curiosity on my part. Should a KTM be parted out on ebay it would be nice to know we could use the parts. My buddy has a 300 EXC. It has a 2K-2 with the factory rivited on weight. I'll have to check it out when we both have a chance.
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  #16  
Old 12-18-2007, 11:26 PM
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Well in cornfused so i'm sending my stator and entire wiring harness to dale mazzorrow @ trick for him to do the work in early january..

then ill be running the new TT 3 in 1, 90 watt HID lights used @ LMS!!!!
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  #17  
Old 12-21-2007, 01:20 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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Hi!

The stator of the Trailtech DC KTM kit is exactly the same as the OEM GasGas. So, there is no need to float the ground on the stators of GasGas as long as you use both AC output wires (yelow and white)? I went through my old magazines yesterday and I found the 24hr torture test of Dirt Rider on 2003. They mentioned clearly (it was on the Hot list) that the stator of the EC250 and the FSR did not need any mod to run the HID Bajadesigns light! Probably just a DC rectifier/reg and a battery.

As Glen mentioned, the main thing is not to have two different ground connections on the bike (on the stator and somewhere on the frame). So what would be the model of DC reg to use and how would the wiring be (all the way to the HID ballast) after I connect both AC stator wires to the rectifier/regulator?

Also, I went through the wiring on the bike. The free wire I mentioned about behind the tank in the airbox is about the rev meter of the bike. The free ac white wire I found it taped above the cylinder head beside the yelow wire just before it connects to the harness.

I hope this info helps!

Leon
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
They mentioned clearly (it was on the Hot list) that the stator of the EC250 and the FSR did not need any mod to run the HID Bajadesigns light! Probably just a DC rectifier/reg and a battery.
Leon, I wouldn't bet on that. I think what they ment was the 2K-3 had enough power and did not need a rewind. Besides, even if they did say it would work directly, its Dirt Rider mag were talking about here, not EE Times or NASA Tech Briefs.

If the light system was self contained, and had its own rectifier/regulator with an internally ISOLATED DC ground that would be fine. All you would need to do then is hook up your AC and frame ground and your good to go. It doesn't matter which ground is isolated or floating from the frame, the point is they can't be connected together. Floating the AC ground on the stator is more flexible in that you can then add any DC accessory you want as long as total power is considered.

The STOCK stators are the same, its clear from the photos and looking at my stator. The OEM AC voltage regulator(clipper) is grounded by the coil mount. Its simple, prove it to yourself by measuring between the frame and yellow/white wires with an AC voltmeter.

The FSR is a DC system, frame is DC ground.
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:44 PM
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I am still confused, somewhat, but that is nothing new for me so I am
fairly comfortable...

That said. What did Leon mean by:
"The free wire I mentioned about behind the tank in the airbox is about
the rev meter of the bike."

I do not remember seeing (any) free wires on my bike. 2002 XC300
If there was a wire for a "Rev Meter" (Rev limiter? or Tachometer?) it
might be nice to hook up an after market tachometer just for reference.

I still feel I need to perform the Floating Ground modification to achieve
my goal of being able to charge a battery and in the future upgrade to
an HID light. So far everything I have heard about using the TrailTech
FullWave Rectifier requires the stator to float the ground. Let me know
if I am wrong.

One question I was going to ask when I got closer to doing my install
is "What do I need to do about the stock voltage regulator?" (voltage
clipper?) that is installed under the gas tank in the the little nook between
the frame rails up by the steering head. Do I just remove it? Tape off the
yellow wire or leave it available for a 12VDC source?

And Where should I look to find stock ground wire(s)to the frame? Is that
the "Coil mount" mentioned by Glen? I believe my regulator (clipper) has
a ground wire that goes to the 6mm screw that bolts down the regulator.

As I understand it. I need to take the grounds from all the lights, horn, etc...
from being grounded to the frame and ground them ONLY to the battery
negative terminal. In essence. The stator, Rectifier/Regulator, battery and
all the electrical components must be linked together and never touch
the frame of the bike.....correct?
I assume the CDI and ignition system do their own thing being grounded
at the stator and to the frame at the coil.

I'd like to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and experiences.
Jeff So.Cal.
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  #20  
Old 12-21-2007, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
As I understand it. I need to take the grounds from all the lights, horn, etc...
from being grounded to the frame and ground them ONLY to the battery
negative terminal. In essence. The stator, Rectifier/Regulator, battery and
all the electrical components must be linked together and never touch
the frame of the bike.....correct?
NO, not correct. The AC common or ground is isolated from the stator PLATE by the stator mod. Thats the whole point of the mod, to break the PLATE/MOTOR/FRAME ground path. The stator ground wire is connected to the winding ONLY, and now used as one side of the AC. Now the AC floats and you can use the frame for DC ground.

If you were to use both AC and DC then you would have to be carefull that the grounds are not connected somewhere.

Depending on the specs of the Trailtech rectifier/regulator, you should be able to scrap the OEM AC regulator.

The CDI power is from a different winding and is isolated.
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