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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:48 PM
Jacob 'Berg Jacob 'Berg is offline
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Originally Posted by poelinca View Post
Changed the reeds, PV rocker arm and the air filter, went out for a ride and it looks like the bike is overheating only on high load and high revs.

Was it overheating before or after you did the reeds, pv, and air filter?

Only reason I ask, is I am not a big believer in coincidences...


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  #12  
Old 06-07-2017, 10:34 PM
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Pete getting royalties from you jake?
Should be eh!
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  #13  
Old 06-08-2017, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jacob 'Berg View Post
Was it overheating before or after you did the reeds, pv, and air filter?

Only reason I ask, is I am not a big believer in coincidences...
It was overheating after i've changed all those.

Anyways, tried to remove the vent hose from the fuel cap to check the cap out ... i've used muscle instead of brains that's for sure and i tore the little lip that the hose attaches to. It does have some white gunk of some sort in it, i can blow thru it but it's difficult (definitely not as it should be).

Ordered new tank cap and vent hose, meanwhile i'll check the carb see if everything is ok in there clean it up and then ride again see how it goes with a new spark plug (i didn't had the time to take the old one off and see how it looks like, but i will this weekend).

Unfortunately i don't think i'll have the time to go out and ride soon, maybe in a couple of weeks ...
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  #14  
Old 06-25-2017, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Should be eh!
Went to ride once more, same symptoms but overheating a lot more. Basically i could only ride 1/4 throttle or less.

Took the carb out today, it was way richer than i remembered and float height was way way off.

What i did till now:
- adjusted the float height to 7.5 mm
- the jet was in good position (red #4, the position i like the most during the summer)
- changed the pilot from 40 to 38 (since the summer is in full swing, 37 celsius today)

Now on to the main jet, i would put a 175 instead of 180 BUT i don't have one. I only have a 172 that i used a couple of years ago in the summer with the NEDJ needle. Unfortunately i don't have time to order a 175 to go with the JD red needle, as i'm leaving in 3 days to my first ever hard enduro race (C class).
Am i safe with the 172 ?

Things i'll also do before the race that will impact the overheating:
- new piston rings + top end gaskets (i'm getting really close or already have passed the 40 hour mark on the piston)
- radiators (they are bent pretty bad, ordered some chinese ones, if they fit they go in for the race, if not i'll use the old ones)
- aluminium water pump mod (if it arrives on time, ordered but i don't have a tracking number for it)
- new fluids

I still have a ton to do for the bike and not all parts arrived, i won't have time to test the bike out before the race ... maybe stop on my way there, but it will be dark, hope it will work out just fine. If needed, i can stop on the track to fiddle with the jets/needles, but everything else needs to be in tip top condition.
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2017, 10:38 AM
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Replace the radiator cap before you do anything else. Cheap and simple to prove right or not. And it's good to have a spare.
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  #16  
Old 06-25-2017, 12:51 PM
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Replace the radiator cap before you do anything else. Cheap and simple to prove right or not. And it's good to have a spare.
It will only work if it's sucking air thru the cap, otherwise the coolant will still boil inside the rad, right ?

Unfortunately i don't have the time to wait for a new one, any other crossover cap (from kato for example) that fits ?
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Old 06-25-2017, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by poelinca View Post
It will only work if it's sucking air thru the cap, otherwise the coolant will still boil inside the rad, right ?

Unfortunately i don't have the time to wait for a new one, any other crossover cap (from kato for example) that fits ?
If the radiator is unable to pressurize, the water will boil over and vent out of the cap, allowing the bike to overheat. it is a very common problem, and I had this happen on two of my bikes recently. If the system can't contain pressure, it can't contain water, and it overheats and burps and spits. The radiator cap has exactly one job- to control the pressure in the cooling system. If it can't control the pressure, the system fails to operate at the right pressure and temperature, and the water pushes past the cap.

Purpose of the radiator cap

Another example
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  #18  
Old 06-26-2017, 12:57 AM
VilluEST VilluEST is offline
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First, just try to bend the ears on the cap a bit more so it's really snug and clean the inner seal and inner radiator lip to see if it makes it better. My GasGas had quite a lot of coolant crystals/aluminium oxide built up and wasn't sealing good enough.
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  #19  
Old 07-11-2017, 05:45 AM
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The top piston ring was pretty worn out, i removed it with bare hands + left hand side radiator hose that goes into the frame to connect to the right radiator was pinched + carb float was way off.

Now with new radiators, new piston rings, new water pump and re-jet, everything is back to normal. Kind of ripped my arms off till the piston rings seated tough, but we're back in business.

Had a blast last week, unfortunately fell off on my right shoulder again and with the broken collar bone i had 2 months ago i had to cut the vacation short. Now i'm on "standby" again, for who knows how long the only good thing is that the bike is running amazing, starts first kick and didn't overheat once, not even on upstream rivers in 1'st.

Thanks all for the suggestions!!!



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