Do I need to remove my cool cable choke from my new Gasser????

[REVERUP]

Originally Posted by singletracker

My problem with the cable had nothing to do with bike prep or maintenance. It was just one of those things. I will agree that it may never be a problem for some, but it was for me. I'm glad everyone is willing to share their experiences both good and bad regarding issues of all kinds. That's what helps people make educated decisions about their own bikes.

Not sure if you added wire ties in strategic places to help keep it in place so it is less likely to be pulled on by brush. That can help and that was part of my prep.

I have some things I always do before my new bike ever sees dirt. This part was new to me so I wasn't sure what really would be needed to keep it reliable.

This is what I did and would be my suggestion in a minamum for those that intend to keep it on the bike. Zip tie it in 3 places making sure not to bind the cable in any way. Then put water proof grease in the boot to help keep water and grit out. And redo the grease and lube the cable periodically.

This is all I have done and seems to work great through it all.

Roscoe

[singletracker]

I hope you never have a problem with it, but it is a mechanical part on a dirt bike that is meant to be thrashed through the woods. I really don't care if anyone else is using it or not. I chose to take it off because it is one less thing that I have to worry about.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by singletracker

I hope you never have a problem with it, but it is a mechanical part on a dirt bike that is meant to be thrashed through the woods. I really don't care if anyone else is using it or not. I chose to take it off because it is one less thing that I have to worry about.

Agree. I don't want to have to clean or lube a cable that I hardly use. The other option is just the simpler one. Part of the reason I went from 4T to 2T. Just to simplify things.

[CACTUSREID]

possibly a dumb question, but for those that did replace the cable with a pull knob on your air striker 2 carbs- what pull knob choke ass'y did you order/get to replace the cable with? That plastic threaded cap on the cable has some very large threads on it. I don't know if i have ever seen a choke ass'y with that large a threads on it?
thks Cactusreid

[john r b]

Call Sudco they have them $12 or $14 cant recall which.

[bukwheat]

I have left mine on the handlebars on my 11 6 days. I kind of like it there. Never had a problem so far....

[Moto7man]

Originally Posted by bukwheat

I have left mine on the handlebars on my 11 6 days. I kind of like it there. Never had a problem so far....

I've used mine for 3 years without a problem.

[Hooligan]

Couple of questions:

I bought my bike used so I'm not sure how it came from the factory or what, if any, mods may have been done to it. My bike is a 2010 EC250F with the Yamaha WR motor

The carb has a pull type choke on the left side but it also has the cable type (on the left bar) mounted on the front of the carb just above the conventional choke.

A friend asked if this was really a second choke or if it is actually a Hot Start lever? Seems kind of strange to have two different choke systems on the carb?

If the cable type system is removed, what have people used to plug the hole in the carb? Are there any bits in there that need to come out?

Currently I am experiencing a bit of a hanging idle when hot and when the bike hasn't been run for a couple of weeks it is a real PIA to start. We ride in a lot of muck and water and the bike gets power washed after every ride so I am sure there is water getting in where the cable runs into the carb. I have no issues with a conventional choke so I really don't need a bar mounted secondary choke

[Jakobi]

250F will most definitely be a hot start lever on the handlebars.

[Hooligan]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

250F will most definitely be a hot start lever on the handlebars.

Which makes more sense than a secondary choke mechanism.

I have never once had to use the hot start. Might be worth removing it and plugging the hole in the carb to prevent any issues or crap entering the carb.