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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 08-21-2018, 02:12 PM
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Um, it's the most common on that suits 90% of common jap bikes. Use a dab of grease on the face to crank end to prevent damage.

This will explain
https://www.motoxparts.co.nz/p/flywh...rsal-nac-tools
27x1mm

I like the motion-pro one, simple robust, can give it a shock with a hammer.


Like go hold flywheel with this to undo. Have to position carefully so don't snag pulsar coil. Available from supercheap etc for not much.

https://www.google.com/search?client...d7j8NovOpOvkM:


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  #12  
Old 08-21-2018, 04:19 PM
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Harry Harry is offline
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Julian - crank main bearings and seals can be bought through industrial bearing supply shops such as Saeco Wilson NZ.

Connecting rod is the same as Honda Cr250 (check years)

Attached is a list of bearings and seals for my 02 EC300
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BEARINGS AND SEALS.pdf (17.3 KB, 9 views)
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  #13  
Old 08-21-2018, 04:47 PM
julian5000 julian5000 is offline
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Awesome, thanks guys. Aiming to crack into tear down on the weekend.

If you're in my neck I owe you a beer.
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  #14  
Old 08-21-2018, 06:35 PM
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I used Saeco for 20 years but now their prices hammer the chap off the street so they can give thier trade customers 50% discount as a starting point
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'07 EC300 GG
'14 TXT250 GG
'? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid
'22 765 Street Triple RS
'21 XTrainer
'69 Stinger T125 Suzuki
'23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing)
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  #15  
Old 08-25-2018, 04:45 PM
julian5000 julian5000 is offline
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Yep, that'll do it...



Crank bearing is toast. To confirm, I should:

- get the crank rebuilt
- see if any other bearings in the cases are feeling rough
- order new bearings and seals
- might as well do top end while i'm in here (although top end isn't that old)

anything else i should check while i'm in here?

cheers
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  #16  
Old 08-25-2018, 09:32 PM
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Gasser Nate Gasser Nate is offline
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I would replace all bearings and seals while it is split. If the top end isn?t that old you can do it in the frame later easily enough. Last thing you want to do is strip it down in a months time because a bearing did not get replaced. Check the gears for wear and chipping as well. Make sure the little plastic guide that the shift shaft scorpion rides on is in good shape. The early four strokes had a alloy one that held its shape better. They are not hard to make on a lathe though.
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  #17  
Old 08-26-2018, 12:16 AM
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Check gearbox bearing but they live in oil and should really last the lifetime of the bike.

Measure the ring end gap. 0.5 to 0.8mm on a 300. Mine was barely worn after several years so it went back. Ran great today, idle issue gone.
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'07 EC300 GG
'14 TXT250 GG
'? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid
'22 765 Street Triple RS
'21 XTrainer
'69 Stinger T125 Suzuki
'23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing)
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big end, bottom end, crank, crankshaft, rebuild



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