Steering stem nut torque

[r00zter]

What is the proper torque for the steering stem nut? My manual gives three different values..... Steering Nut: 44 Nm, Steering Nut: 98 Nm, Steering Stem Nut: 4 Nm.

I am assuming its the 98 Nm one, but just double checking. 2011 EC 300. Thanks.

[Neil E.]

If you are talking about setting the preload on the steering stem bearings, then it would be a very low figure. Most of us probably do it by feel. Tighten it just enough so there is no play. The nut that anchors the top fork crown to the stem would be much tighter. You also need to double check the bearing feel after tightening the top fork crown nut.

[Jakobi]

Winging numbers from when I was working on my mates yamaha a few weeks back, as stated preload on bearings is low (and was done by feel). Book specifed 7Nm. The main nut was a decent torque and yamaha specd 140Nm.

From the values you posted I'd say 4Nm and 98Nm respectively. I generally just work by feel for these things.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by Neil E.

If you are talking about setting the preload on the steering stem bearings, then it would be a very low figure. Most of us probably do it by feel. Tighten it just enough so there is no play. The nut that anchors the top fork crown to the stem would be much tighter. You also need to double check the bearing feel after tightening the top fork crown nut.

I usually check the bearing feel by letting the bars fall side to side and want just enough that they still fall under their own weight once nudged off center.

How will I be able to do this once I install a steering damper?

[singletracker]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I usually check the bearing feel by letting the bars fall side to side and want just enough that they still fall under their own weight once nudged off center.

How will I be able to do this once I install a steering damper?

I use an over the bar damper, and bolt it on last so that I can check the torque the same way that you do. I've also turned the damping all of the way down and checked it after installing the damper, but I feel more comfortable checking it before the damper is installed.

[Neil E.]

Correct, the damper goes on last no matter what type it is. You will have take the bars off and on an extra time. Set it up like normal without the damper, then bars off to install the damper.

[Jakobi]

Motosportz under bar damper. I see what you mean. Iinstall the collar and then rest as normal to check tension. Then remove the bars and fit the damper. Thanks

[n_green]

Having issues getting my steering head bearings right.

When I tighten the first nut that secures the stem and bearings in the tube just barely enough so that there is no play in the bearings and then tighten up the top nut on the top clamp my steering gets really notchy and tight. The bottom bearing does look slightly worse for wear.

But if i leave the stem nut loose enough so that there is the smallest amount of forward and backwards play in the bearings and then torque the top nut up the steering feels much better and I can just barely notice the notchy bearings. (I have new bearings on order). I also can no longer feel the slack in the bearings.

My question is does the top nut also pull in the bearings? Is this a common problem or is it simply that the bearings must be completey stuffed and not just a little bit.

2011 300 by the way.

Cheers

[Boomhauer]

Sounds like your bearings are shot. I always tighten mine up until I feel them bind up just a little. Then back the nut off until the bearings seem free. The top mount should have no impact on on the lower stem. Hope this makes sense.

I had the same thing happen on my Husaberg. The lower bearing was shot and was binding up in my garage while on the stand.

[n_green]

Yeah sounds exactly like what is happening with mine. I didn't think it was right, even though the setup is slightly different it never happened to me on my old KTM300. Oh well, fun times ahead changing the steering head bearings .....