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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #21  
Old 02-29-2012, 04:42 PM
19brendan81 19brendan81 is offline
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Re pipes - my bike has the nickel plated pipe on it. Does that mean there is no catalytic converter welded inside?

I notice that if you tap my pipe with a spanner, it makes a 'thud thud thud' noise, whereas if you tap the stock pipe on my mates YZ it makes a 'ting ting ting' noise. I had always assumed there was an extra lining inside there.

Re the compression tester - im pretty sure it is accurate. I have used it on other things (cars, other bikes, chainsaws) and it reads as expected. The most recent example of this was when I was rebuilding a Mini 1000 motor and it read 160psi on each cylinder which what I was expecting.

I will test my bike again once I have done the reeds, as if these were leaking (which they are) it would effect compression to a degree...not sure if it would effect it to the extent of losing 40 psi though. If I cant get the compression up...would you say that 120psi is too low? It seems very low to me.


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  #22  
Old 02-29-2012, 05:19 PM
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I've ran with chipped reed petals and it made the bike a pig to idle and a bit crap right off the bottom. I wouldn't say it felt too bad under heavy throttle.

I'd be trying to run a length of wire or the likes through the pipe to see if their is anything in there blocking it. Cat perhaps.
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  #23  
Old 02-29-2012, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19brendan81 View Post
I will test my bike again once I have done the reeds, as if these were leaking (which they are) it would effect compression to a degree...not sure if it would effect it to the extent of losing 40 psi though. If I cant get the compression up...would you say that 120psi is too low? It seems very low to me.
i'm assuming you're kicking it about 5-10 times with wide open throttle?
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  #24  
Old 02-29-2012, 05:32 PM
19brendan81 19brendan81 is offline
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Yep. It was taking a good 6 or 8 kicks to get the reading stable, then a few more after that for good measure. I was doing it in sneakers too and my foot was killing me after doing the test 6 times! I had to use lefty for the last one.
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  #25  
Old 02-29-2012, 10:28 PM
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I've never heard of a nickel pipe with anything in it but who knows.

Reeds could be missing & you'll get the same com reading at kick over speed.

so without re reading the last 3 pages; when did you last look at the piston & check the rings not worn or snagged over?
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  #26  
Old 02-29-2012, 10:39 PM
19brendan81 19brendan81 is offline
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Piston and rings are brand new....have been on 2 approximately 3 hour rides on them. They went in fine and the piston is DEFINITELY installed the correct way - I have done this job before and checked a million times.
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  #27  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:45 AM
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Cleaned the carb recently? Sounds like a blocked jet, or could be a loose electrical connection somewhere.
For me, one of the female spade connectors on the coil was loose and made my bike run rubbish, squished to a bit and its been fine ever since.
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  #28  
Old 03-01-2012, 01:57 PM
Gasserguy250 Gasserguy250 is offline
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Hi, My EC 250 has the same symptoms, reeding this thread has really helped. I have alot of checks to catch up on. Just wanna say thanks so thanks :-)
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  #29  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasserguy250 View Post
Hi, My EC 250 has the same symptoms, reeding this thread has really helped. I have alot of checks to catch up on. Just wanna say thanks so thanks :-)
Welcome to GGRider.. Hope you enjoy your stay! Pleanty of usefull info here to help you get your Gasser running right.
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  #30  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:51 PM
19brendan81 19brendan81 is offline
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The carb has just been rebuilt by RB designs...its definitely not that. The bike had even less power than this (substantially infact) before I did the head, carb and carby.

Is it the compression? What sort of readings have other 300 riders gotten with their compression tests?

"Just wanna say thanks so thanks :-)"

No worries!
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