I don't see it.....

[memphis2857]

I have used both and they will work just fine for the riding you will be doing. The Kenda is probably a little better tire. The washugal works well here in Indiana


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[12Bravo]

Originally Posted by memphis2857

I have used both and they will work just fine for the riding you will be doing. The Kenda is probably a little better tire. The washugal works well here in Indiana


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I mainly looked at the Kenda for price. How is durability? I am fine with paying $100 for a tire if it last. But I can't afford to change a tire every 2 months, I plan to ride once or twice a week for a 20-25 miles and everyday around the house working on Clutch throttle control, just simple slow maneuvers.

I'm really interested in Endurocross stuff, looks fun and challenging, yet not crazy fast with huge jumps and stuff.

[Mick]

Originally Posted by 12Bravo

I mainly looked at the Kenda for price. How is durability? I am fine with paying $100 for a tire if it last. But I can't afford to change a tire every 2 months, I plan to ride once or twice a week for a 20-25 miles and everyday around the house working on Clutch throttle control, just simple slow maneuvers.

I'm really interested in Endurocross stuff, looks fun and challenging, yet not crazy fast with huge jumps and stuff.

The Kenda Equilibrium is getting good reviews, it is a cross between a trials tire and a normal MX tire.

Haven't tried it yet though. Depending on the terrain which varies wildly here in Idaho...everything from hard pack desert, shale bolder fields, super slick mud to slime covered rocks and roots (all in one ride ) I run Michelins. M12's, S12's...and AC10's.

I am going to give that Kenda a try next. It comes in a 19 too...

http://powersports.kendatire.com/en-...d/equilibrium/

[barossi73]

if you want to get some extra life out of a tyre,buy an$80 knobby knife.this lets you recut the rounded knobby edges back to square.typically i cut mine 3 or 4x then its new tire time.also saves the tire being removed/fitted a bunch of times or rotated.usually on the 2nd cut i also cut the lateral edges to get a bit of edge grip back.worthwhile on rears,not on fronts which usually last 2or3x longer than rear.takes about 20min each time,with no need to remove wheel

[12Bravo]

Originally Posted by barossi73

if you want to get some extra life out of a tyre,buy an$80 knobby knife.this lets you recut the rounded knobby edges back to square.typically i cut mine 3 or 4x then its new tire time.also saves the tire being removed/fitted a bunch of times or rotated.usually on the 2nd cut i also cut the lateral edges to get a bit of edge grip back.worthwhile on rears,not on fronts which usually last 2or3x longer than rear.takes about 20min each time,with no need to remove wheel

Never would of thought of that. Will have to look into doing this once I get the dry rotten tire off the bike.

[gasgasxc]

If you are just learning and basicly play riding around the house, throw a trials tire on it.
Cheap guys run trials tires.

[swazi_matt]

Originally Posted by barossi73

if you want to get some extra life out of a tyre,buy an$80 knobby knife.this lets you recut the rounded knobby edges back to square.typically i cut mine 3 or 4x then its new tire time.also saves the tire being removed/fitted a bunch of times or rotated.usually on the 2nd cut i also cut the lateral edges to get a bit of edge grip back.worthwhile on rears,not on fronts which usually last 2or3x longer than rear.takes about 20min each time,with no need to remove wheel

Also use Tubliss and reduce the pressure as the tire wears and when you think all is done you just use a blade to slice the center of the middle knobs to add a bit of flex

[Jakobi]

I only notice how well a tyre hooks up when its new as its replacing one that's well done. Tyre pressure and clutch control takes care of things generally. When riding I find that a bald tyre in motion still does quite well. If conditions are poor and you're stopped it can highlight its short comings. Just makes you work a bit harder.

I've use Dunlop MX51 rears pretty much exclusively on the last couple bikes. I can get them at decent prices. I can get decent range out of them (700-1000kms generally), and they work predictably through their lifespan over a wide range of terrain. Seem to offer a nice balance between all the compromises.

Personally I'd be more inclined to pull the tyre and flip it than spend time with a knobby knife.. but that's just me! And I don't often bother flipping a tyre without reason.

Racing is a different animal. I'd take performance and terrain into account and use the best match you can - and start with a freshy.

I also found when I was slower I used to used to wear the rears much quicker than the fronts. These days I find the front gets worked over equally as hard. Not a lot of flex in the forward direction, but working the side lugs in the corners and the forces it experiences under brakes definitely take their toll on fronts. Likely also spend less time unintentionally spinning the back tyre, and more time finding traction with it.

[gasgasxc]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I only notice how well a tyre hooks up when its new as its replacing one that's well done. Tyre pressure and clutch control takes care of things generally. When riding I find that a bald tyre in motion still does quite well. If conditions are poor and you're stopped it can highlight its short comings. Just makes you work a bit harder.

I've use Dunlop MX51 rears pretty much exclusively on the last couple bikes. I can get them at decent prices. I can get decent range out of them (700-1000kms generally), and they work predictably through their lifespan over a wide range of terrain. Seem to offer a nice balance between all the compromises.

Personally I'd be more inclined to pull the tyre and flip it than spend time with a knobby knife.. but that's just me! And I don't often bother flipping a tyre without reason.

Racing is a different animal. I'd take performance and terrain into account and use the best match you can - and start with a freshy.

I also found when I was slower I used to used to wear the rears much quicker than the fronts. These days I find the front gets worked over equally as hard. Not a lot of flex in the forward direction, but working the side lugs in the corners and the forces it experiences under brakes definitely take their toll on fronts. Likely also spend less time unintentionally spinning the back tyre, and more time finding traction with it.

If you are the kind that likes to flip the rear tire to get more life out of it; and I'm deff that kind; do it sooner then later, say after the 3rd or 4th ride.The key is flipping the tire soon enough that you still have some braking edge left on the knobs.