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  #1  
Old 10-07-2015, 03:31 PM
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12Bravo 12Bravo is offline
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Default Beast!

I am new to riding, well it's been 20 years since I rode a dirt bike.

You all have seen my threads on the 99 EC200 I got.

This is the issue, it's a beast! Well at least to me.

Riding this week in an 1.5 acre open area it scared the crap out of me several times. I was working on keeping the power under control and not lugging the bike. There was such a small area of lugging to WOW, I can't hardly keep the front wheel on the ground!

What are my options to tame this thing, I can't see myself riding this in the woods on tight trails with rocks and logs to deal with. I can't keep it under control in a field more less an area that has real dangers to hit. It's like it is just lugging or it's wild! Would be great for a track, but I'm not riding a track nor do I want to.


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  #2  
Old 10-07-2015, 04:41 PM
memphis2857 memphis2857 is offline
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Try riding a gear higher maybe. Or you could try to tame the hit with jetting. Maybe try a different needle. A lot of folks like the NEDW needles.


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  #3  
Old 10-07-2015, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memphis2857 View Post
Try riding a gear higher maybe. Or you could try to tame the hit with jetting. Maybe try a different needle. A lot of folks like the NEDW needles.


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I played with starting in 2nd to see how it handled. Has a little less punch, but luggs really bad.

NEDW needles, I'll look them up. As far a jetting goes, I have no clue where to even begin.

Will the ones I have, have numbers on them so I know what I got to begin with? When changing them, is up or down better?

I will look at post on here and try to get a feeling for it also.

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2015, 04:52 PM
memphis2857 memphis2857 is offline
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Yes it will be marked. Chances are it still has the n1ef needle which will make it explode like you are describing. The NEDW is a Suzuki needle and can be ordered from about anywhere. You will need to dig through some of the jetting posts on here to find the Suzuki part no.


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  #5  
Old 10-07-2015, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by memphis2857 View Post
Yes it will be marked. Chances are it still has the n1ef needle which will make it explode like you are describing. The NEDW is a Suzuki needle and can be ordered from about anywhere. You will need to dig through some of the jetting posts on here to find the Suzuki part no.


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Thanks, will start the search now.

I am happy with the bike, just want a little less punch for now. Riding in the woods and up hills, I don't want to have to hang on for dear life. That's not fun to me anymore, did plenty of that with quads!
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  #6  
Old 10-07-2015, 05:30 PM
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That's the joy of owning a 2 stroke! Particularly a small bore.

I haven't followed your other threads too much, so straight off the bat. What ignition is it running? Have a search here for 2K2 or 2K3. Pretty sure the smaller more aggressive lighting coil has the wires coming out of the stator cover towards the front of the engine (say 10 o'clock). If you have one of these, do you have a fly wheel weight?

Jetting, an early model 200 won't really have the same requirements as a newer 250/300 so I wouldn't expect the NEDW to be the go-to. You may find a richer NEDG/F may work, but you're getting into tinker town and would need to put the time and effort into establishing base lines and then fine tuning.

What gearing are you using? Going shorter will make it pull through the revs sooner/harder/faster but often this means you can run a gear higher and stay in the meat of the power. Taller gearing can sometimes put you in the area where the bike is constantly transitioning from off the pipe to on which in my experience makes it harder to ride. I'd rather just have the engine singing, but this leads into the next part.

Seat time. Give yourself a chance to get to learn the bike. Of course it'll be wild and crazy. You haven't been on a bike in 20years +. Dirt is another animal compared to road too. Embrace the 'oh shit' and work at slow drills learning how to modulate the clutch and throttle. It'll carry over at any speed and fundamentally make you a better rider. CLUTCH CLUTCH CLUTCH.
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Old 10-07-2015, 05:32 PM
memphis2857 memphis2857 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
That's the joy of owning a 2 stroke! Particularly a small bore.



I haven't followed your other threads too much, so straight off the bat. What ignition is it running? Have a search here for 2K2 or 2K3. Pretty sure the smaller more aggressive lighting coil has the wires coming out of the stator cover towards the front of the engine (say 10 o'clock). If you have one of these, do you have a fly wheel weight?



Jetting, an early model 200 won't really have the same requirements as a newer 250/300 so I wouldn't expect the NEDW to be the go-to. You may find a richer NEDG/F may work, but you're getting into tinker town and would need to put the time and effort into establishing base lines and then fine tuning.



What gearing are you using? Going shorter will make it pull through the revs sooner/harder/faster but often this means you can run a gear higher and stay in the meat of the power. Taller gearing can sometimes put you in the area where the bike is constantly transitioning from off the pipe to on which in my experience makes it harder to ride. I'd rather just have the engine singing, but this leads into the next part.



Seat time. Give yourself a chance to get to learn the bike. Of course it'll be wild and crazy. You haven't been on a bike in 20years +. Dirt is another animal compared to road too. Embrace the 'oh shit' and work at slow drills learning how to modulate the clutch and throttle. It'll carry over at any speed and fundamentally make you a better rider. CLUTCH CLUTCH CLUTCH.

This!


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  #8  
Old 10-07-2015, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
That's the joy of owning a 2 stroke! Particularly a small bore.

I haven't followed your other threads too much, so straight off the bat. What ignition is it running? Have a search here for 2K2 or 2K3. Pretty sure the smaller more aggressive lighting coil has the wires coming out of the stator cover towards the front of the engine (say 10 o'clock). If you have one of these, do you have a fly wheel weight?

Jetting, an early model 200 won't really have the same requirements as a newer 250/300 so I wouldn't expect the NEDW to be the go-to. You may find a richer NEDG/F may work, but you're getting into tinker town and would need to put the time and effort into establishing base lines and then fine tuning.

What gearing are you using? Going shorter will make it pull through the revs sooner/harder/faster but often this means you can run a gear higher and stay in the meat of the power. Taller gearing can sometimes put you in the area where the bike is constantly transitioning from off the pipe to on which in my experience makes it harder to ride. I'd rather just have the engine singing, but this leads into the next part.

Seat time. Give yourself a chance to get to learn the bike. Of course it'll be wild and crazy. You haven't been on a bike in 20years +. Dirt is another animal compared to road too. Embrace the 'oh shit' and work at slow drills learning how to modulate the clutch and throttle. It'll carry over at any speed and fundamentally make you a better rider. CLUTCH CLUTCH CLUTCH.
Bwhahahahaha, "Embrace the 'oh shit'...."

That's great, reminds me of the Army days of "Embrace the Suck".

I have been working on the clutch, it is different! I believe I have the 2k2 in it, the gearing I have no clue and not even sure how to check that? Count the teeth on sprockets?

When you said off the pipe then on, this is what is happening. Either it is lugging or sluggish or it is hold on to this "Raped Ape"! Standing up, when it hits is out of the question right now!

For example, I was playing with where the hit is and where I can get on it and still not be crazy. It hits really hard at a little under 1/2 throttle, so keeping the RPM's up to practice hopping the front end is really odd and hard. It either stalls or wants to rip the bike out of my hands, there is NOTHING smooth like I experienced in the past.
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  #9  
Old 10-07-2015, 06:02 PM
Terrence R Terrence R is offline
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A flywheel weight will help for sure along with jetting as Jakobi mentioned. U can start by lifting your needle one clip (moving the clip down one) and going up one size on your pilot jet. It may be a little lean on bottom right now, which could cause it to turn on hard when it finally gets enough fuel in the mid range. I'm not sure what pilot jet is in your bike right now, but if there's a 38 in there, stepping up to a 40 could help (just an example as I'm not sure what size Pilot jet is currently in your carb). Does your bike idle well? Almost sounds like it's bogging on bottom; based on your description of it bursting into power once near mid throttle.
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  #10  
Old 10-07-2015, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12Bravo View Post
Bwhahahahaha, "Embrace the 'oh shit'...."

That's great, reminds me of the Army days of "Embrace the Suck".

I have been working on the clutch, it is different! I believe I have the 2k2 in it, the gearing I have no clue and not even sure how to check that? Count the teeth on sprockets?

When you said off the pipe then on, this is what is happening. Either it is lugging or sluggish or it is hold on to this "Raped Ape"! Standing up, when it hits is out of the question right now!

For example, I was playing with where the hit is and where I can get on it and still not be crazy. It hits really hard at a little under 1/2 throttle, so keeping the RPM's up to practice hopping the front end is really odd and hard. It either stalls or wants to rip the bike out of my hands, there is NOTHING smooth like I experienced in the past.
Count the teeth on the sprockets. I'd imagine something around 13-50/52 front-rear would be in the average mans working area.

The powervalve opens with rpm, based off centrifugal force. It's possible to add/remove shims to the spring to change the timing in which the pv opens, but it does require removal of the rhs engine cover to do so.

If you have a 2K2 ignition I'd be investigating a flywheel weight. The 2K3 has much more inertia than even a 2K2 with a weight. This will slow down the the rate at which the engine spools up, as well as making it less prone to stall.
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