Pressure test clutch bubbles!

[(F5)]

I've never replaced gearbox bearings. They live in oil and turn slowly.

Left bearings on crank don't last forever.

[Moto7man]

This is a series of three videos (see link below)that show you how to do a bottom end rebuild. It includes tools needed and inspection tips.Go slow, split the bottom end, replace the gaskets, main bearings and seals as you go along.As I remove each assembly,I place it in a clear sandwich bag and mark it with a felt pen and put the bags in the order they were removed.

If you can't find an oem gasgas bearing or seal just post a picture and someone on the should be able to help you find a replacement. For the most part main bearings and seals should be easy to find. Replace any old seals, gaskets or bearings now and you won't have to go back into the bottom end for a long time.

Don't monkey with the transmission but you can post a few pictures and the transmission gurus here on the board should be able give you an opinion on any wear or needed parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYX-bOG9vR4

[CrankyBrit]

Originally Posted by (F5)

I've never replaced gearbox bearings. They live in oil and turn slowly.

Left bearings on crank don't last forever.

Sweet! That's saved me some time and money already!

Originally Posted by (Moto7man)

This is a series of three videos (see link below)that show you how to do a bottom end rebuild. It includes tools needed and inspection tips.Go slow, split the bottom end, replace the gaskets, main bearings and seals as you go along.As I remove each assembly,I place it in a clear sandwich bag and mark it with a felt pen and put the bags in the order they were removed.

If you can't find an oem gasgas bearing or seal just post a picture and someone on the should be able to help you find a replacement. For the most part main bearings and seals should be easy to find. Replace any old seals, gaskets or bearings now and you won't have to go back into the bottom end for a long time.

Don't monkey with the transmission but you can post a few pictures and the transmission gurus here on the board should be able give you an opinion on any wear or needed parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYX-bOG9vR4

Excellent advice, thank-you! ...and those videos look like they'll be very helpful to!

I haven't confirmed all of them, but it looks like I can get all the bearings & seals through CPD. If they don't have the OEM part, they usually have an equivalent.

There's a very strong possibility that I'll be posting a lot of pictures and asking silly questions

I guess my next step is working out the specialty tools I need, and finding them.

[CrankyBrit]

I have another question regarding parts in the diagrams that I'm missing.

I seem to be missing the reed valve spacer, part 3 here ...and of course one of the 4's:



Is the diagram right that I should have that spacer? ...is it important? ...I assume so, or why would they add it?

Maybe the previous owner was even more inept than I thought and lost/left it out; ...or maybe it's only a 200 (apparently that part is only for the 250 and 300 bikes). I was told it's a 250 with a 300 top end. I guess I'll find out more when I open it up.

[CrankyBrit]

another missing part, the cylinder head brace.

It appears to be a couple of lengths of flat bar that bolt through either side of the frame at the top end and the cylinder head at the bottom.

Part 18 in this low quality CPD diagram:



Is this something everyone else has? I assume it would be very good to have them. They're $10 each.

[(F5)]

Weird they aren't there. Have you got a length of metal to make new ones?

[CrankyBrit]

Originally Posted by (F5)

Weird they aren't there. Have you got a length of metal to make new ones?

Yes, odd indeed, but based on what I've seen so far not terribly surprising.

I'm sure I can make some. I have a sheet aluminium that should do it, it's fairly thick. ...I won't even have to worry about painting them, I don't want to end up with a rusty mess.


I haven't got far in the engine rebuild yet. I got it out of the bike, but the stupid block that the kick starter arm fastens to won't come off the shaft, ...and I sent the tools I ordered to my old address so I have to go get them tomorrow.

[CrankyBrit]

My home made kick start puller worked a treat....



...and yes, I put a washer on the end of the shaft to avoid damaging it with the bolt. =)

I now have the full clutch cover removed. ...is the nut for the clutch basket, the one with the fold-over lock washer, supposed to only be finger tight?

[CrankyBrit]

I got the full clutch cover off and have been having fun removing the various parts in order to split the engine. I'm glad I had my father-in-laws pneumatic impact driver because my electric one wasn't able to undo the crank nut. ...I wasn't sure the air one is was going to get it either, it struggled! I suspect a lot of thread lock may have been used, as there was a lot of something in the threads. There was also a lot of what appeared to be broken plastic behind the nut, I'm hoping it's just excess thread lock....



My 27mm LH flywheel puller hasn't arrived yet, it's still in transit somewhere this side of Las Vegas apparently, but I'm not sure it's going to help. Upon closer inspection the thread appears to have been flattened. I'm guessing someone using a socket to drive the flywheel on got it into the threads and destroyed them. Fingers crossed, but I'm anticipating making another custom puller.

[Anders]

Originally Posted by CrankyBrit

I'm guessing someone using a socket to drive the flywheel on got it into the threads and destroyed them. Fingers crossed, but I'm anticipating making another custom puller.

You may very well be right, but there should never be a need for drive the flywheel onto its taper with anything but your own fingers. It is a loose fit until it is onto the taper.