how to fix MOST clutch problems + cr250r clutch conversion.

[Moto7man]

I'm running a Rekluse basket with my Rekluse auto clutch. I highly reccomend the Rekluse basket, it silences the squeal unless you are running two gears too high.

[iamovru]

Gotcha! I really wanted to avoid paying $900 for the full blown Rekluse. I'll stick with the old fashion way of doing it . Thanks for the heads up


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[motopsycho87]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

ok, i figured i'd put all the data in one place.



cr250r clutch pack conversion:

stock gg friction plates: 2.85mm (some are 2.9mm)
stock gg steel plates 1.5mm

use honda cr250r 1994-2007

cr250r friction plates 3mm
cr250r steel plates 1.5mm

cr250r plates, clutch stack height = 30mm
gg plates, clutch stack height = 28.95mm

no mods need to be done to use cr250r steel plates.

to use cr250r clutch friction plates:
you can mill the inner clutch hub spacer (gg #ME25632011). You want to mill the one between the hub and the basket (not the one behind the basket) to between 1.80mm and 1.95mm (stock is 2.8mm - 3.00mm depending on year?) thick - mine is 2mm - and it drags slightly. i fixed this with 2 stock gg friction plate in the mix. you can adjust the clutch drag by mixing and matching stock and cr250 frictions. with bike running or not, hot or cold, i can put bike in gear, pull clutch and push bike around....with stock clutch, it would drag badly, and would not allow this. keep in mind there's a fine line between dragging and slipping. if your stack height gets too thin, it will slip. but when it's just right it's perfect...

if you don't want to mill the spacer, i believe suzuki part #08211-22423 is already 2mm thick (confirmed 2mm thick by bitoman) kawasaki also has a clutch spacer about 2mm thick. do some research and you will find it.

other options:
get thinner steels from rekluse. this is more expensive than using a complete cr250r clutch pack.

if you do convert to cr250r clutch, be nice and make sure you paint marker 'cr250r' inside the clutch cover so the next guy who owns your bike doesn't end up scratching his head when his brand new gg clutch pack won't work...

So the clutch has 8 friction plates, and 7 steels...

Standard GG clutch

(2.85*8)+(1.5*7) = 33.3, where did 28.95 come from?

CR250R clutch

(3*8)+(1.5*7) = 34.5, where did 30 come from?


So 34.5-33.3 = 1.2, so if the spacer is originally 3mm, it should be reduced to 1.8, cool... BUT!

My clutch hub to basket spacer measures at 2.5mm?? Not the 2.8 or 3.0 quoted... where might this have come from? I'm going to surface grind my spacer to 1.8mm at work tomorrow and see where I end up .

[Fred1956]

Originally Posted by motopsycho87

So the clutch has 8 friction plates, and 7 steels...

Standard GG clutch

(2.85*8)+(1.5*7) = 33.3, where did 28.95 come from?

CR250R clutch

(3*8)+(1.5*7) = 34.5, where did 30 come from?


So 34.5-33.3 = 1.2, so if the spacer is originally 3mm, it should be reduced to 1.8, cool... BUT!

My clutch hub to basket spacer measures at 2.5mm?? Not the 2.8 or 3.0 quoted... where might this have come from? I'm going to surface grind my spacer to 1.8mm at work tomorrow and see where I end up .

I can't argue with your math but I have done this conversion and it works.... even with my Rekluse (which BTW didn't come with the correct spacer I needed) it is possible that the thrust thickness isn't a tight tolerance??? My Suzuki washer I got wasn't 2.0mm either. I think the point that we are modifying and with this info there is a baseline, you'll get it and you'll probably like it

[motopsycho87]

Machined the spacer to 1.85mm. Fitted the plates, no drag, no slip. Amazing! Managed to male it groan though, fast get away from standing start with supermoto gearing and castrol mtx 80w. Only seemed to do it when very hot.

[Fred1956]

Originally Posted by motopsycho87

Machined the spacer to 1.85mm. Fitted the plates, no drag, no slip. Amazing! Managed to male it groan though, fast get away from standing start with supermoto gearing and castrol mtx 80w. Only seemed to do it when very hot.

I used the Rekluse basket to stop the occasional groan that I had when hot and under heavy load

[RockefellerGG]

Originally Posted by thumperflipper

If you do this mod with a drop in autoclutch, make the gap adjustment (with washers) on the OUTBOARD side of the throwout bearing (the THIRD way to adjust gap that I mention in the first video). It is just much easier.
Also I just put new clutch springs in (stock from Gofasters). The old ones were sacked out. If you do this mod, you want firm clutch springs.

I'm in the process of trying a drop in CR450 Rekluse EXP 3.0 into my 05 EC 250. Were you able to continue using the e-clip that retains the throwout into the pressure plate? When I add washers to the throwout, not enough of the tip is exposed to get the clip back on.

Just to confirm, are you using the stock needle bearing and the hardened washer in your washer pack?

Thanks!

[RockefellerGG]

Just to be clear, I see that GG calls what it a "Clutch Pin"... #16.

If I add washers on top of the needle bearing and hardened washer, the e-clip won't go on.

[thumperflipper]

you are exactly right, you have to ditch the e clip....when I took the auto clutch out of my Honda I noticed my Honda didn't have any clip holding the clutch pressure plate on. so yes you are right there is not enough room to get the e clip back on but after almost 2 years it still doesn't seem to be a problem.

also yes, be sure to keep the hardened washer against the needle bearing. Your shim washers will go outside or outboard of the hardened washer.

sorry bro I can't remember if the Revloc extends above the basket fingers or not. my guess is the EXP is a bit thinner than the Revloc.

the only issues I've noticed is after taking the clutch apart a few months ago was that the clutch steels had some mild to moderate heatwear marks on them. I wasn't too worried because they still measured within spec and were not warped, and this was an old clutch pack that have been on the bike for a long time. I think the clutch steel wear is a combination of an old clutch pack, taking clutch steels and clutch fibers out of the clutch pack (which likely will increase the wear on the ones that are left in the pack), and also of me lugging and bogging my bike all the time on hill climbs.

at the same time that I installed the auto clutch, I also installed new clutch springs. These were the factory ones from gofasters. the Barnett clutch springs might be stiffer and might get you a more solid engagement.

when you're doing your testing make sure to check the inside of the clutch cover to see if the pressure plate is rubbing against it. you may need to adjust your shims/clutch pack accordingly, or even add a second gasket to the clutch cover. I didn't have to do this fortunately but I think this is why some of the rekluse kits come with a larger clutch cover.

I found shims on google that had *very close* to the same OD and ID of the stock hardened washer, and then ordered a couple different sizes (thicknesses) to give me some adjustment options. THIS is what made the adjustment easy, at least for me.

good luck with your endeavor! I'm excited to hear about the results.

[RockefellerGG]

Thanks for this! Your guidance made perfect sense...

I got my EXP 3.0 running. I am running 5 frictions and 5 steels. Gap is 1.0mm. When I was set to 1.35, It was too much, no autoclutch engagement. I am using the medium (factory spring setup) on the auto clutch. It still takes a little more RPMs that I prefer for my liking, so I'm going to play with the gap and springs a little more.

$399 was WAY better than dropping $899 on the Core EXP.