Hard starting - Timing change?

[mattmax]

I just replaced the the combination ignition, lighting coil in my 05 MC250 with a Moose(made by Electrosport) unit with 60w lighting.

I marked the stator plate with scribe marks to put it back the same, but it could have shifted some. I now have trouble starting the bike, hot or cold, I have to kick it very fast and it then runs and idles perfect. When I do a spark check, it is a good looking blue spark, although I have seen stronger.

I'm assuming that the problem is probably with the spark timing, although I did change silencers about the same time.

Can anyone tell me how to check/set timing or is my best bet to just turn the plate a hair at a time until it starts easily? Would I retard the spark for easier starting?

Matt

[GMP]

Matt,

I never saw one of these. Does it use the stock flywheel?

Check the orientation of the trigger coil relative to the trigger magnet strip on the OD of the flywheel, with the crank at a fixed position before TDC. Compare the two stators. Stator position on the cases means nothing if the trigger coil is mounted slightly different on the stator.

[mattmax]

Originally Posted by GMP

Matt,

I never saw one of these. Does it use the stock flywheel?

Check the orientation of the trigger coil relative to the trigger magnet strip on the OD of the flywheel, with the crank at a fixed position before TDC. Compare the two stators. Stator position on the cases means nothing if the trigger coil is mounted slightly different on the stator.

It uses stock flywheel and simply bolts onto the original stator plate in place of the old six poled ignition/lighting coil. It looks very similar, just a little heavier. The ignition coil side even ohms out exactly the same as stock. Nothing about the trigger coil changes.

I marked the plate in two places, but it looks like my engine was drilled and machined to accept two types of stators and my round stator plate has a crescent shape cut out of the side, allowing the plate to shift off center if not carefully installed. Most plates on other bikes are held in a perfect center and can only be rotated left or right. I wonder if this was done to cure a machining error made in manufacture.

I'm going to assume that I either have a weak spark unless kicked fast enough, or my timing is off. It makes sense to me that if I retard the spark, starting should be easier, so I'll try that a little at a time.

[mattmax]

I guess this really belongs under "electrical".

I figured out that my problem is no spark unless I kick it over very fast. My Honda CR500 has the same issue, but it has to be kicked hard anyway and there is plenty of room for follow through.

The Gas Gas has that short lever that stops early with no room for a full kick.

I guess everything points to the new coil, unless I disturbed the trigger coil in some bad way. I guess I'll be swapping coils to check.

If I went to the 14 oz flywheel, will I have any more output than the 10 oz? Someone once suggested the magnets were bigger on the 14 oz.

[GMP]

I'm really not sure exactly what you have. Is it a complete stator with a rewound lighting coil? Trigger coil included? Post a link or photo.

If its a complete stator from a different mfg, perhaps there is a slight compatibility issue with the CDI. The CDI box is a microcontroller that requires power from another coil on the stator to run. Possibly this coil on your new stator has a lower output. Verify the timing is close between the stock and new stator, if it is then I would suspect a compatibility problem.

The weights you speak of have nothing to do with the stator, they are purely inertial. The larger 2K-3 ignition from the EC has more lighting output but I suspect the CDI coils are the same as the same CDIs are used.

[cdn280]

If you've been trying to start it for a while and its real flooded now, you know there is a plug in the crankcase you can pull to drain it right?
Good luck.