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  #61  
Old 12-18-2013, 07:08 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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They were cleaned before being ridden hard. Not before they had a quick loop of the yard though which made it pretty aparent that they needed it. Back in particular. It might be hitting the frame as even stepping on the pedal it doesn't want to lock up or slide like the other bike. Maybe its that there is tread on the tyre

Front is exactly what I was going to do (same as we do with Yamahas). Ditching the switch definitely takes some of the mush out of the lever.


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  #62  
Old 12-19-2013, 10:27 AM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
I have the galfer wave rotors on both my 2010 and 2013. The rear brake feels like its just not biting at the disc. Possibly still burning the assembly grease/oil off the disk. I have given them a clean. The front is more to do with actual feel at the lever. The brakes still work quite well, but the lever has a soft progressive feel rather than a very firm bite.
The front brake on my 2011 has the "firm bite." It is a one finger brake.It still has the brake light switch. One of my buddies that rides a KTM was helping me load the GASGAS onto a trailer, he grabbed the front brake and it stopped so quick that it threw him forward. He was surprised and he told me "My KTM can't stop like that!" Imho, that is a real advantage in tight woods.
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  #63  
Old 12-19-2013, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Moto7man View Post
The front brake on my 2011 has the "firm bite." It is a one finger brake.It still has the brake light switch. One of my buddies that rides a KTM was helping me load the GASGAS onto a trailer, he grabbed the front brake and it stopped so quick that it threw him forward. He was surprised and he told me "My KTM can't stop like that!" Imho, that is a real advantage in tight woods.
Same as my 2010. I'm not complaining or saying either is any better than the other. Just noting some comparisons.
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  #64  
Old 12-20-2013, 04:33 AM
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Had a little more tinker time today.

Pulled the RHS footpeg and put on the stocker from the 2010. Definitely a poor casting of the pegs and not the chasis. I ground some material back from the stop section and reinstalled and its a much better fit. Not 100% perfect, but an improvement. Will likely ride it as is now until I order a new set.

Went over the rear brake setup. Confirmed that I could get the lever to contact the frame simply by pushing down on it with my bare hand. No doubt that stepping on it would have had it doing the same and causing the poor performance. Adjusted the lever so it sits nice and high which is just above flush with the pegs in the higher position. Will test ride and confirm, but pretty sure that was it.

Hand guards on. Just went with the stock Gas Gas brush guards. I'm happy enough with these.. As long as you watch out for trees. Also went over all the levers and put some electrical tape underneath them before snugging them up. Have them tight enough to hold their own, but will move if hit. Sure saves the levers, and definitely saves the master cylinders.

Bar pad purchased and installed. Looks perdy!

Secondary kill switch on the bars, and wires run back around past RH rad. Still need to remove the tank to finish wiring it in (to earth and loom/CDI).

I've also got a niggle with the rear shock spring groaning on rebound. Have double checked and rear brake line was touching, and has been moved away for clearance. Still does it. Nothing else making contact. Definitely the spring - linkages have been greased and not binding. It has done this from new. Thoughts?

She looks sexy! Can't wait to get it dirty!
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  #65  
Old 12-20-2013, 06:08 AM
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I really like your subframe
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  #66  
Old 12-30-2013, 12:32 AM
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Took the 2013 250R on its virgin busting ride!

Running the stock springs and clickers somewhere around the middle. I didn't stop to change anything all day so thats a pretty positive thing. Very ridable but still room for improvement. I've still got a squeak coming from the rear spring on rebound. I'm not sure what it is, but will be checking it out.

Engine wise, have the 8mm spacer on the PV, running AS1.5 40 N3CW#3 178 and I think if anything it could have been a touch fluffy on the main still. Bottom end was perfect with loads of grunt and clean running.

The 48 tooth rear sprocket is too tall for this little engine. It'll pull ok in the higher gears but has a tendancy to drop on/off the pipe if you're not ringing its neck everywhere. Big steep hills in second really dragged it down and lead to some clutch abuse.

The clutch is nice. Good feel. No squarking! even under heavy abuse. Cooling system was good. No boil overs while the 4T's were having a spit.

Brakes do feel good, but I want more from the front still. Back was resolved by lifting it a bit to stop it catching on the frame.

The FMF Q is a spooge machine. Biggest dribble ever! I'd like to get a turbine core for this, but I may just buy a new one for my 2010 and then modify the other into a shorty with some custom mounts (where the old ones have worn out).

Thats all. She's sweet. I enjoy the extra clearance. She's a touch more stable in the turns and the slops, but I also got her giving a little head shake in the open stuff. Overall very happy! and even happier got through the initial ride without binning it. The height is not an issue when geared up in the bush with lots of variation in ground. Always somewhere for a foot to go.
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  #67  
Old 01-02-2014, 03:22 PM
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  #68  
Old 01-02-2014, 06:16 PM
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Looking nice jake, touch more fettling ant you will be struggling to ride the 10 I reckon! Nice report.
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  #69  
Old 01-02-2014, 06:19 PM
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Ps drop the forks 5mm, no more shake, especially with heavier springs.
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  #70  
Old 01-02-2014, 06:49 PM
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I'm not sure what rate springs to end up running up front. It felt quite good on the last ride running PFP at 2.5 turns in, C14, R 12 (from memory). I didn't feel the need to adjust it at all. Back end felt ok, but did kick on the same things that generally kick me around on the other bike too. Sag figures seemed pretty good, but LSC maybe a bit soft. I could get it to bottom in the G outs/base of steep hills when hitting them aggressively.

On the 2010 running .46 and 5.6 rates and they are firm, but compliant. Actually have the shock out of the 2010 for a revalve again now, so will be riding it while the heads out getting milled. From there it could be a tough show sharing the load between the two!

What silencer options do I have for the 2013? Not overly stoked with the huge FMF.
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