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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing.


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  #11  
Old 05-18-2014, 04:30 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Technique. Lay it over, use the throttle! Thread the needle. Do the Wattsy Wiggle! I ride some stupid tight singles (just don't post a whole lot of it as its not as exciting). Technique involves setting the bike up before the tree. Move it over so the wheels run near the base of one, and tip the bike through the gap. Throttle will still skip the back end over quite easily, even down hill.

If I'm moving too slow to employee any of the above I'll try use the clutch to lift the front wheel on the spot and pivot, or lay it over tuck the front and spin the back around. Doesn't always work.

But in saying that the lesser turning circle/lock to lock of the gasser hasn't really impacted on any trail abilities. I do notice it in the shed though, sometimes having to do a 2 point turn just to get out the door.


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  #12  
Old 05-18-2014, 04:58 PM
Fakesy Fakesy is offline
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Cheers mate, that's pretty detailed.unfortunantly the paticular hill I'm on about is to tight to lean over (trees are pretty close) and it gets me every time where I either bin it as can't get round or the safe option is to get off and man Handel it around, where as the boys on the ktms can get round ok then the piss taking begins lol, it's no biggie as rarely ride it but does bug me and also can't get my head around why GG skipped bread and butter design critiria
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  #13  
Old 05-18-2014, 05:00 PM
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Have you considered trimming the actual bar width down?
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  #14  
Old 05-19-2014, 11:53 PM
222parsons 222parsons is offline
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Can someone post up a pic of the steering stop bolts on a 12? Mine doesn't have any fitted... and the frame is already dented from the forks.
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  #15  
Old 05-20-2014, 01:24 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 222parsons View Post
Can someone post up a pic of the steering stop bolts on a 12? Mine doesn't have any fitted... and the frame is already dented from the forks.
I haven't had a good look, but from memory the stops are threaded into the lower triple clamp. The stops 'stop' against the frame, if not the forks hit the rads.
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  #16  
Old 05-20-2014, 10:49 AM
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john r b john r b is offline
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Fakesy, What rear tire size are you running? Another member i believe it was Sweeper had mentioned noticing a wider turning radius using a 140 vs 120 width tire.I like to keep my bars stock length. Best of luck.
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2014, 10:57 AM
desertgasser300 desertgasser300 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
I haven't had a good look, but from memory the stops are threaded into the lower triple clamp. The stops 'stop' against the frame, if not the forks hit the rads.
Strange, my forks hit the frame first and are no where near the rads if I take the stops out? I wonder what the difference could be? On the 97' they barely hit the rads with the stops in.

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  #18  
Old 05-20-2014, 11:08 AM
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You will be right. I'm just going off what makes sense in my head. I haven't taken any measurements/removed the stops. Where are your forks contacting the frame? Now that I think about it, even with the stops in my fork slightly compresses the small rad hose that goes through the frame so I don't think mine would touch the rads either. Thats on a 2013.
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  #19  
Old 05-21-2014, 08:35 AM
Fakesy Fakesy is offline
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I'll think I'll live with it,so cheers chaps anyway.
It's got 120 tyre on her.i can email u pic of stopper if u want, got man flu ATM and not got energy to suss out how to post pics
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  #20  
Old 05-21-2014, 05:02 PM
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Ahh man flu! Had that the other week myself. Seasonal change always the time.

I run a 110 rear, but it varies from brand to brand a bit depending on how they measure (lug to lug/carcass).
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