GasGas Riders Club Forum  

Go Back   GasGas Riders Club Forum > GasGas Enduro Technical Forums > Enduro Suspension

Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-15-2010, 07:03 PM
Brian's Avatar
Brian Brian is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 306
Default Fork Seals

I have blown fork seal from last weekends race. Hope to have the video posted of that later this week.

So I have never done fork seals before. What do I need?

1. Seals
2. Oil
3. Special Tools?

Where can I buy seals? Are they the same as the Husky 45mm's? Want to get all this quickly incase I ride again Sat. or Sun.

How hard is this to do? Anyone have a link to a good guide?


__________________
2006 Gas Gas EC250
2011 Husaberg FE390
Reply With Quote


  #2  
Old 11-15-2010, 10:06 PM
GMP's Avatar
GMP GMP is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jefferson Twp., NJ
Posts: 7,597
Default

I've done seals on a lot of forks. The Zokes tend to have a pretty snug fit of the seals in the tubes, more so than WPs for example. For this reason I have and would recommend a 45mm seal/bushing driver. I got one off ebay a few years back for around $30. As for seals, I have always used the Marzocchi OEM kit on both Husky and GG Zokes. Not impressed with the Moose Chineese junk I've seen. If you've never done this service try and have someone who has show you. Since all forks are basically the same once the cartridges are out you can refer to say a WP procedure. I've never seen a good Zoke specific procedure. Just note the order of all the parts removed. Key points are the tubes must be warmed (uncomfortable to touch) with a heat gun or torch over the bushing/seal area prior to slap hammering the fork apart, and again before driving the bushings and seals back in. Very important is covering the inner tube with a greased plastic bag or taping/greasing the end of the tube past the bushing land to prevent the seal from being damaged.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-16-2010, 11:36 AM
Rick's Avatar
Rick Rick is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lodi, Ca
Posts: 1,932
Default

Where did you race.....Stonyford??? The WFO>?
__________________
Rick
99 EC 200
06 RM 250
AMA D36
375X
OTHG
375S

***Thanks for the support : Twin Air /O'Neil Racing / Race 100% / Matrix Concepts / ODI / Mika Metals
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-16-2010, 12:20 PM
Brian's Avatar
Brian Brian is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 306
Default

Hollister Hills. Did the HHORA hare scramble. Have not seen the results but I know I did really crappy. Had such bad armpump I had to stop twice, crashed once because I completely lost control of the bars. Never really felt like I got up to full speed. Never even got tired because I wasn't going fast enough. But it was fun, a good first race.

I ordered last night;
OEM seals from North Tahoe Motorsports (Ebay)
From RMATV:
Motion Pro Fork Seal Bullet 45mm
Motion Pro Fork Seal Driver 45 mm
Tusk Fork Oil Level Tool
Bel-Ray Fork Oil 7W 1 Liter

Watched two videos on youtube last night from RMATV they made replacing the seals look not so bad.
__________________
2006 Gas Gas EC250
2011 Husaberg FE390
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-16-2010, 12:31 PM
stainlesscycle's Avatar
stainlesscycle stainlesscycle is offline
Site Sponsor
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: morgantown, wv
Posts: 1,608
Default

1 liter may not be enough fork oil....i don't know spec on those forks, but it may be very well above .5 liter per side.

i don't own any of those tools, there are homebrew solutions to all of them:
seal bullet: i use greased ziplock bag
seal driver: i use old seal
oil level tool: long piece of small diameter hose taped to a coathanger, and marked at desired oil level.
__________________
07 ec300
was 00 xc200 now a 00 xc300. now parting out.
99 ec300 (now a pile of parts which are for sale)

Stainless Cycle - Motorcycle Bolt Kits
www.stainlesscycle.com
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-16-2010, 12:53 PM
moto9's Avatar
moto9 moto9 is offline
Silver Level Site Supporter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 367
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian View Post
I have blown fork seal from last weekends race. Hope to have the video posted of that later this week.

So I have never done fork seals before. What do I need?

1. Seals
2. Oil
3. Special Tools?

Where can I buy seals? Are they the same as the Husky 45mm's? Want to get all this quickly incase I ride again Sat. or Sun.

How hard is this to do? Anyone have a link to a good guide?
Check out thumpertalk, there should be plenty links.
I'd replace the bushings as well...depending on how many hours are on the bike.
As for tool, a seal driver would be nice, but you can use a piece of pvc pipe to drive it home.
Get a piece of pvc that is s snug fit to slide down into the tube
(not the slider) you want the pvc pipe to rest on the outer edge of the seal..as not to damage the seal lip.
The pipe needs to be long enough to extend over the slider when compressed.
Use a soft mallet hammer and tap the seal into place.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-16-2010, 01:45 PM
GMP's Avatar
GMP GMP is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jefferson Twp., NJ
Posts: 7,597
Default

1L is not enough. You will need almost 1.5L.

The PVC works great on WPs that just about fall together when the tube is heated, but the bushings and seals in Zokes fit tighter and you have to be careful the edge is releived on the inside as not to damage the seal lip like stainless mentioned. The bushing needs a square edge to drive it in completely so I made a short double sided PVC tool thats split, hose clamped to the fork tube, and you use the fork tube to press or tap everything in. I've done it but its a PIA to get everything right with the right size PVC. For me the real tool is worth it as I do forks on at least four bikes. Good purchase.

The bushings should be fine as long as the dull green teflon coating is intact over the bronze on the bearing side(s). If you can see shiny base metal they are toast. Be carefull R&R them. Wouldn't hurt to drop the damper rod out of the cartridge, check the piston ring, and clean things up.

Bullet tool is nice but you also have to protect the seal from the sharp edges of the bushing land as you slide it over. Tape this, and grease the new seals path good.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-16-2010, 02:58 PM
Brian's Avatar
Brian Brian is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 306
Default

Added another liter of Oil to my order. My time is limited so I figure if have the "right tools" it will go quicker plus I don't have to dig around/make something. Much easier to have it delivered to my door. My thoughts on the oil tool is I'll make less of a mess with that.

I'll make sure to inspect the bushings.
__________________
2006 Gas Gas EC250
2011 Husaberg FE390
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-17-2010, 05:11 PM
Keg Keg is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 304
Default

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/videos.do?videoId=91
__________________
EC300 2019 (11 Gassers owned, many more to go)
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
help on WP 4357 fork seals. asshat Enduro Suspension 1 06-17-2008 02:56 PM
Fork seals Iron Hide Enduro Suspension 2 02-22-2008 01:45 PM
wp fork seals dlwheaton06 Enduro Suspension 4 12-23-2007 07:34 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2009 - GasGasRider.org