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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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Complete list of bearing and seal size
Does anyone have complete list of bearing and seal size for a 03 MC 250. I think I have seen one on here but a search did me no good, I need to do top and bottom.
I also need crank seal size for 02 EC 200 I assume they are the same?
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02 EC 200 03 MC 250 88 VT 800 01 TXT 280 |
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Here you go from my 02 EC300
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Thank you
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02 EC 200 03 MC 250 88 VT 800 01 TXT 280 |
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Here are my notes from the earlier bikes. They include some cross over info too.
Counter shaft bearing 6305C3 (Grainger # 4ZXJ1) Countershaft Seal 30x40x7 Clutch bearing 6205Zc3E Trans shafts 6203c3 (Grainger # 4zxe8) 98-02 Crank 63/28c3 or 63/28 maybe All Balls Part Number: 24-1112 Ignition crank roller Bearing, NJ206ET-C3 or KTM 50330082000 which has higher c3/4 tolerance Note that some engines (250 and 300) went to roller bearing on the ignition side. The 2001 Xc250 had the roller bearing but the 2004 200 had two ball bearings. Same bearing as the Honda CR250 1990-2008, Honda CR500 1989-2002, Kawasaki KX250 1993-2008, Kawasaki KX500 1993-3005, Suzuki RM250 1999-2007, Yamaha YZ250 1989-2013 Someone tried this in a 07 300 -NJ206 ET -C3 (LHS) and 63/28-c3 (RHS) question is are the Crank seals the same as the 01 02 models - ie kok 20x35x6 -viton (LHS) and kok 38x52x7 -viton (RHS) 1 x SMALL END BEARING INA KBK 18x22x22 1 x LHS CRANK BEARING SKF NJ206ECP - C3 (TPZ- this should be the ET not ECP) 1 x RHS CRANK BEARING SKF 63/28 - C3 1 x COUNTERSHAFT BEARING SKF 6305 - C3 1 x LHS CRANK SEAL KOK 20x35x6 - VITON ktm 47030076100 04-14 105 85 65 1 x RHS CRANK SEAL KOK 38x52x7 - VITON ktm 0760385273 94-14 250 300 1 x COUNTERSHAFT SEAL 30x40x7 Suzuki 09283-30061 Shift Shaft Seal 12x22x7 KICKSTART shaft SEAL 20X30X7 |
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 38/NECW#2/165 FMF gnarly, FMF shorty, .50 front 5.7 rear 2016 RM-Z450 |
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98-02 200/250/300 RHS crank seal is 30-52-8 SKF double lip oil seal
GG part # ME25612008 |
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On the early engines including my 2000 XC300, I HIGHLY recommend you put the RHS crank seal in before you put in the crank. I ruined three seals before I got the 4th one in right.
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I put mine in without the crank, but still managed to mess up. I think I over drove it in and it went crooked. Any tips or words of wisdom to install new one with crank in?
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#9
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1. On the early bikes the seal rides directly on the cranshaft and for later bikes there is a bushing that can go in after the seal is installed which is much easier. For the 2000 300 without the bushing I made a conical glide sleeve from some thin plastic (like a camera film negative) so the seal can slide onto the crank snout. This will keep from damaging the seal. The seal lip and outer seal shell contact at about the same time so it is really really difficult to get them both to go in straight at the same time without problems. The conical glide sleeve made it easier.
2. Warm up the aluminum cases to about 130F to enlarge the hole. Chill the seal in the freezer to make it smaller. Grease or oil the inside of the seal before installation. 3. I used a combination of plastic pipe, crank drive gear, washers along with the crank nut to press in the seal into place. You can use a socket for the 200cc bikes because they have a bolt that threads into the crankshaft snout where the 250 and 300 bikes have a nut on the threaded crank snout. Threading the nut on the crank snout keeps the pressure perpendicular to the cases and helps put the seal in evenly. I hope that helps. |
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