Help with my choice 2011 or 2013 EC300

[rocky2by]

I'm haveing a tough time choosing what year GAS GAS EC or ES 300 to buy. Local dealer has a brand new 2011kick start and another shop has the 2012 and a 2013.Price is not really a concern, but the 2011 is a grand cheaper. I live and ride here in SW Oregon, pretty steep and mountain type terrain along with fire trails, I might even run a few races next sesson. Any advice would be great I have read most of the different upgrades for the years, are you guys on 10-11 super happy or is the 12-13 that much of a better ride?
Thanks, Steve.

[desertgasser300]

Tough call on that one. But in the big picture and the longevity you will have with the bike a $1000 is not that much to spend.

[Jakobi]

Hi Steve,

Welcome to the forum. To answer your question there are a lot of people who own gassers from 2000-2013 who are still happy with their purchases. Realistically there isn't a whole lot in it from about 2007-2011 except for minor changes mostly related to fasterners, fit and finish. 2012/2013 carries the new chasis and updated suspension which has been getting very positive reviews.

If I was in your position I'd get the 2013 model. For the 1G you save on the 2011 model, the 2013 will come with 48mm closed chamber forks. These alone are worth the extra coin. I own a 2010 model with TTX and my only gripe is the low footpeg clearance. I love the seat height though. I'll let the 2012/2013 owners explain why the new bikes are a better ride! I don't want to ride one because I'm afraid it'll open the purse strings!

[nambo-trev]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Hi Steve,

Welcome to the forum. To answer your question there are a lot of people who own gassers from 2000-2013 who are still happy with their purchases. Realistically there isn't a whole lot in it from about 2007-2011 except for minor changes mostly related to fasterners, fit and finish. 2012/2013 carries the new chasis and updated suspension which has been getting very positive reviews.

If I was in your position I'd get the 2013 model. For the 1G you save on the 2011 model, the 2013 will come with 48mm closed chamber forks. These alone are worth the extra coin. I own a 2010 model with TTX and my only gripe is the low footpeg clearance. I love the seat height though. I'll let the 2012/2013 owners explain why the new bikes are a better ride! I don't want to ride one because I'm afraid it'll open the purse strings!

i agree because i have seat time on the 11, i would 100% spend the money on the bike with the 48mm CC forks. I do not like the 45's at all and the new chassis will just be a bonus for you

[twowheels]

You're in luck - the new linkage on the '13 MY is supposed to split the difference (seat height wise) between the '11's (and prior) and '12s.

You'll read it on the forum in more than one spot - the new forks are easily worth a grand over the 45s - go for a '12 or '13.

[CACTUSREID]

those are very good points. But the zoke 45's can be made very nice by a competent tuner. we are lucky here in the interior of british columbia,as we have a couple of shops that work magic with these forks!

[shultzy]

Another option is to do what I did ,and get a 2011 Race Model. It comes with the new 48 ml closed chamber forks and is a really great bike. It has excellent suspension and a reasonable seat height.
I had the chance to get a 2012 but am glad that I went with the 2011. With what I saved I was able to get all the normal guards and a Rekluse clutch.
The new forks are definitely worth getting although anything can be made to work well. You really can't go wrong with a Gasser.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by CACTUSREID

those are very good points. But the zoke 45's can be made very nice by a competent tuner. we are lucky here in the interior of british columbia,as we have a couple of shops that work magic with these forks!

The twin tubes eliminate inconsistencies due to cavitation without the need for high oil pressures. Conventional dampers simply cannot do that.

It does not mean that CC is better than any revalve, it means the twin tubes allow them to work more consistently. They still have to be valved and set up properly.

Out of the box it appears the valving is much closer on the 48mm than the 45mm though.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

The twin tubes eliminate inconsistencies due to cavitation without the need for high oil pressures. Conventional dampers simply cannot do that.

It does not mean that CC is better than any revalve, it means the twin tubes allow them to work more consistently. They still have to be valved and set up properly.

Out of the box it appears the valving is much closer on the 48mm than the 45mm though.

... what he said ...

[phoenix]

Originally Posted by twowheels

You're in luck - the new linkage on the '13 MY is supposed to split the difference (seat height wise) between the '11's (and prior) and '12s.

You'll read it on the forum in more than one spot - the new forks are easily worth a grand over the 45s - go for a '12 or '13.

Anybody know if you can swap 2013 linkage onto a 2012 to achieve the same seat height result? I'm kind of in the same spot as the thread poster, but have a bead on a 2012 I'm interested in...not so interested in the 2012 seat height, though (I'm only 5'6").