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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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Problem shifting into 1st gear.
My 01 XC sometimes doesn't want to shift down into first. I can usually tap the shifter several times or shift up from 2nd to 3rd, then quickly back down and it will go into first but sometimes this doesn't work. When this problem occurs the gearbox just goes into neutral but won't go to first. If I stop and shut the bike off, then restart it, the problem usually goes away for awhile, sometimes for hours, sometimes only for minutes. When the problem goes away the shifting is smooth and normal. The clutch is working fine, the shifter is tight on the shaft. All the other gears are ok, shifting both up and down. The fluid level is ok and the shifting is smooth through all the other gears.
I had this problem on a well used 89 KDX 200 with a ton of hrs on it and was told to put automotive synthetic transmission fluid in the gearbox which I did and fixed the problem, and the shifting was a little smoother as well. My XC is an 01 but doesn't have alot of hrs on it, it was stored and not ridden for several years so the hrs are very low for an 01. Would the synthetic fluid help the XC, if not where do I start looking to find the problem? |
#2
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Sounds like your shifter could be dragging on the engine side cover or hitting the skid plate from the way you explained it. It could even be your boot getting caught making you think that you've pushed the shift lever all the way down.
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#3
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I checked for a stick or mud dragging the shifter first thing, nothing there. Shifter is tight. I changed the fluid again, used BelRay Gearsaver which looks like red transmission fluid but feels like regular oil. Rode around the yard a few times, shifts fine. WhatThe? I never liked BelRay products except their air filter oil and waterproof grease but maybe they got better? Maybe it's coincidence? Going for a longer ride, we'll see if the problem is really solved.
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#4
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Sounds like your problem was just a slightly dragging clutch. Thinner viscosity oils do help and may completely solve your problem. If not check you clutch for warped plates and/or a notched basket. Rotella (full synthetic-it's the thinnest) also works great and is only $21 a gallon at walmart. If your problem comes back after the trans oil starts getting dirty it may also be a scorpion gear which can be fixed by smoothing the edges. The scorpion gear is a stamped metal part that can hang up if it is not perfectly smooth. This is a known problem going back to the early days. Most GG bikes have no problem ever but some do. My 07 did - it shifted fine until the oil got dirty then would hang up until I changed the oil. The edges of the gear felt ok but were rough enough to trap metal particles that were being carried by the oil. These small metal shavings are present in any new engine. The fix is simple, easy, and permanent you will have to remove the shifter, kick start lever, rear brake lever and the right engine cover. I believe you have to drain your coolant as well as the oil. Since your engine is not new I would look very closely at your drain plug and elsewhere for metal filings or damage to bearings or gears.
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#5
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can anyone confirm that atf-fluid is nog going to cause problems like leaks orso?
any kind of atf-oil to avoid? thanks, Hannes. |
#6
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Many on this forum run ATF. No issues but most recommend changing it more often.
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jeff '00 XC250 (mine) LTS front and rear suspension, power valve cover, carb jet kit and rear chain glide, RB Designs head mod, BRP tall triple clamp, backyard foot-peg lowering conversion. '04 EC250 (the kids) (he can do his own mods haha!) |
#7
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Quote:
any specific type of that oil? thanks, Hannes. |
#8
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I've been using ATF recommended for Ford...No problems.
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All healed up, and ready to burn some fat. |
#9
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ATF is OK, I just didn't like the notchy rough shifting feel it gave my '03. It felt like you would expect, thin. My '07 and '12 clutch and shift great with anything. Even with the 15W-40W dino Rotella, in gear dead engine starts are no problem. Considering all the experiences I've had with different oils and bikes, I would say that the oil sensitive bikes are probably on the tight side of clutch release travel, or have slightly out of tolerance parts that are mitigated with the lighter oil.
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#10
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ATF type-F works for me.
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