led's on a ac system

[robicon]

I just mounted a set of led's on my 2010 ec 250 2k3 stator, I have the yellow wire on one side of the rectifier and the + side looped through a switch and lights back to the - side. As it sits the lights flicker I have read through the threads but I am still unsure. Do I need to run another wire from the stator to fead the other side??

[Neil E.]

I can't tell what you mean for the connections. Much of this depends on which rectifier you use (halfwave or fullwave). Assuming it's fullwave (ie Trailtech or Sicass) you would connect yellow to one side of the rectifier input and ground the other side to the frame. The rectifier output wires would be connected + to your switch and then to one side of your lights. Minus would connect directly to the other side of your lights. Neither rectifier output wire is grounded. This is what's called a "floating" system. Your lights will flicker if you don't have a battery in the system.

[robicon]

This what I have but with no battery. I was told I could run these with no battery I talk to the suppler again He has run this on the 2k2 stators but instead of grounding the rectifier the white wire on the stator runs into it instead. I have the 2k3 he thinks I should be fine because the lights can handle 36V. I didn't want to run the a battery but maybe I should and run it the way you are saying. Can I just run a small 12V as I have no other need for power or power when the bike is not running, or will the battery over charge?
Thanks for the input

[Neil E.]

What rectifier are you using? Most also regulate the voltage so you would be OK. You don't need a battery but it will make a big change in the flickering. A small lithium ion battery should work well. Check out the Shorai web site.

[bergerhag]

Connecting the rectifier between the yellow and white output from the 2k3 is not gonna make you happy( unless ofcourse it has been converted to a floating ac circuit). On a non-modified stator, the white is full power output, the yellow is a bit less. The reduced power output is a ac regulator saving construct, to make the need for power dissapation within the regulator a bit smaller when using low or no load (lamps).

[GMP]

Do as Neil describes and add a filter capacitor. No need for a battery unless you need light with the engine off.

[robicon]

I will see if I can pick up a filter capacitor and see if I can get it to work. I didn't want to run a battery because I won't be running anything else. I will float the dc and leave the ac stock. Thanks a lot for the input

[robicon]

I can't get it to work. I have tested the wires under my numbers plate. I found two yellow that both have 12V at idle and with a quick rev increase to 17V and the white is just 2.5V. when I wired in the filter nothing changed I think I may have the wrong one. seems to hold back a lot. 40V at the rec with switch off and 8V on the - side of the filter. been up for awhile my twins have been sick hopefully it makes more sense tomorrow.

[GMP]

There should be only one yellow, one white, and ground. The two yellow are probably connected together. The white is out of phase with the yellow and should not be connected together with the yellow. Remember that you MUST float the ground on either the AC or DC side, they can't be connected together. This means that if you did not mod the stator the DC ckt must remain isolated. Look on the Trailtech site, there are good articles there.

[robicon]

My plan was to float the DC side but I will float the AC if I need to run a battery, just seems safer. I will have to look into my harness I was surprised to find to two yellow wires. The bike is a new to me 2010 came with a different light then stock and was not very bright at all. It was plugged into a yellow wire with a round connector, I thought the other yellow was a yellow and white wire. At closer look it was two wires zip tied together with rectangler connector, which look stock. I thought this was going to be easy but I am getting a little frustrated.