Will not reach powerband 06`EC300

[Neil E.]

I'm no carb expert, but the N1EG needle and #180 main seems too rich.

[stian]

Originally Posted by Neil E.

I'm no carb expert, but the N1EG needle and #180 main seems too rich.

Sorry, I meant 178 main, 42 pilot, N1EG 2.clip from top and a #7 slide with no notch in.

Temps are around 20c-25c now, 600-150m over sea level.
Was out now, tried #7 slide with notch in it, 1.clip on needle (N1EG), 42 pilot and 178 main. Nice and crisp bottom to 3000-3500, but wont hit powerband when its in gear. It does rev out properly when its in neutral thought.

Going out for a test-run again, now ive locked the powervalve in open position.

Its supermotard converted, so rather running it on the ritch side rather than lean.

[Neil E.]

Originally Posted by stian

Going out for a test-run again, now ive locked the powervalve in open position.

I've had my power valve stick open a couple of times and there is a noticeable drop in low end torque. Also sounds baffed out until about mid RPM. It will be interesting to hear what you find out. Did you unhook the rod so the governor balls operate normally?

[stian]

Originally Posted by Neil E.

I've had my power valve stick open a couple of times and there is a noticeable drop in low end torque. Also sounds baffed out until about mid RPM. It will be interesting to hear what you find out. Did you unhook the rod so the governor balls operate normally?

Unhooked the rod, and took a fastener for the nut. Indeed sounds baffed out. Twice the noise from idle.

Unhooking the PV did nothing for the top-end. Ive been out now, swapping the stator for the KTM 250 EXC one. Havent test-ride it yet. Also installed the KTM CDI.


I did take the multimeter, satt it on 200 ohms, checked to yellow wire, coming from stator to the frame. With both the KTM stator and the GG stator it gave 16-17 and dropped to 0 in a second.
There is continuity from the stator and the frame. Just seen a video on youtube where the guy said there was not supposed to be continuity there?

Same did I to the coil. It gives 10,5ohm. That is the plug-cap to the coil. Is this correct?

[GGRider01]

I'm baffled by electricity but I'm pretty confident in believing there should be continuity between the yellow and frame. It's in my mind the only way alternating current could work - unless you've floated the ground on the stator.

[stian]

Originally Posted by GGRider01

I'm baffled by electricity but I'm pretty confident in believing there should be continuity between the yellow and frame. It's in my mind the only way alternating current could work - unless you've floated the ground on the stator.

Havent done anything to the stator, its standard.
Checked my old stator and coil, and stator is OK.

Coil - (white/blue - frame) on multimeter settings on 20k ohm, it says 0,04. KTM book says its supposed to be 0,475-0,575 ohms. I checked both the KTM coil and the GG coil, both were identical readings. Dont know if any of them works thought.
Stator (yellow-frame) it is 0 ohm.

[GGRider01]

I was getting similar readings on an auto ranging meter. I think mine were in the area of 18,000+ Ohms from the plug cap to the lead that carries voltage into the coil. Not sure what this means.. probably that we're using our meters wrong.

In any case, the yellow only provides power to the lights. You have a separate winding on the stator to provide spark and the two shouldn't affect one another.

Have you measured resistance on the pickup coil, AKA pulsar coil? It's the little black box that the flywheel magnet passes by to signal spark to the CDI and ignition coil. This should read 100 Ohms, +1/-1 or so.

[Neil E.]

You will get continuity from yellow to ground since you are actually measuring the resistance of your lighting coil windings. The factory manual says it should measure 0.67 ohms +/- 20%. This has nothing to do with how the engine runs.

[stian]

Originally Posted by Neil E.

You will get continuity from yellow to ground since you are actually measuring the resistance of your lighting coil windings. The factory manual says it should measure 0.67 ohms +/- 20%. This has nothing to do with how the engine runs.

OK, thanks. Damn, Neil, you are a wizard when it comes to wiring

But I think I solved this.

I think it has been a combination of alot of things. Electrical has been a fault, but just now, I took of the silencer and used a flashlight. Its a used Pro Circuit 296 with a Spark Arrestor. For an unknown reason, the spark arrestor was FULL of packing. The pipe inside had broken, may be due to vibrations. Since I was going to repack it anyhow, I poured 2liter of water. Came nothing out..

I think this is it. Going to repack the silencer tomorow and take it for a ride. This has to be it. It cant be anything else. Ive gone thru electrical components, everything is OK, carb is OK, reeds, piston, cylinder, PV, rod, gas, hoses, sparkplugs, HT wires etc.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Yeoop!

I'd be checking the PV governor and making sure the actuator arm can and does work as it should; not just checking that the drum valves and flapper 'can' turn.

Consider changing carbs if you have the option. The nozzle could be flogged out, but I imagine you'd notice it across the rev range rather than the behaviour/issues you're having. Regardless check off the list what you can!

How's the exhaust? Do you have anything that is seriously restricting flow and choking it? Rag in the pipe? Ratts nest? Packing fluffed up? Kids toys?

DING DING DING!!! We have a winner!