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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#11
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p.s. if it's lean shouldn't it start hard/run bad on high altitude ? the bike starts first kick every time, hot or cold from 300 up to 1800 meters, i never had a problem regarding this, never had to fiddle with the carb (so it means it's actually running rich right ?)
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'14 EC300 |
#12
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oil seal
If your oil seals leaking it'll cause the odd odor and smoke
And i would assume could be causing detonation = possible overheating. Stoby |
#13
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#14
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Crankcase drain is seperate from transmission oil so doesnt matter if you have dropped trans oil or not.its useful for draining water when bike has drowned or in your case for eliminating coolant/excess oil fouling the fuel mix
Smoking from pipe after engine off can also occur after a prolonged wot run,esp if there was a lot of slow puttering before.the excess oil buildup gets hot enough to smoulder in pipe.could be,but not necessarily a lean symptom.
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2013 ec200r Last edited by barossi73; 05-03-2016 at 04:28 PM. |
#15
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If all is as it should be you should only have a small pool of 2T oil pooled in the crank cases, and if the engine has been turned over a few times it should be coating your big end and crank more than running out the drain when you remove the plug. If you are getting water into the crank case you'll see the oil has emulsified and gone creamy like. I also agree with barossi regarding the pipe smouldering. If I transition from a day in the singles to doing some 5th - 6th wide open I can get enough heat into it to burn off the excess oil. I've also run lean enough to have the bikes power curve dropping flat under load and not had any smoke from the pipe. A lean setup can also cause that too. In relation to the crank case seal on the rhs, it doesn't really explain why the bike would run poorly in the morning and OK in the afternoon. I would replace this seal and o-ring if you dig deep enough to get to clutch and PV governor. Cases do not need to be split, but the RHS engine case/cover does need to be removed and can be done with the bike laid over on its side. If you are losing significant volumes of oil you can measure what comes out vs what goes in with the transmission oil. If it's being burnt off you'll have the rich smokey condition and poor running along with less trans oil coming out when changing it. I always pour the old oil back into a 1L bottle for a quick crude check. While a bike shouldn't run with the bung plug in, I must say I have done this too. Bike has fired up a-ok but it's immediately noticeable that the exhaust isn't flowing and I'm sure if you tried to keep it running long enough it would flame out/load up. We've used the method to snuff a husky WR300 that had its kill switch disconnected due to it shorting. Have you changed filter oil recently? or started over oiling the filters? It's hard to tell by reading if you are saying that the engine just won't rev and is running poorly like it's over fuelling/loading up, or if its mechanically not opening the PV. When my PV stuck wide open the engine truly sounded like a bucket of bolts - not just didn't sound right - it sounded fatal. |
#16
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Drained the crankcase, only a few drips of oil came out. It looks and feels the same as the gear box oil.
As for running lean/hot, here is the spark plug after aprox. 18 hours of usage LHS PV, it looks like water in there.
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'14 EC300 |
#17
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I think it's time to clean the PV and exhaust ports, while i'm at it i'll order new crank seals and change the one on the RHS if you say i won't need to split the cases open. It will take a while tough before i'll be able to post any updates and/or ride the bike to see if it fixed the issue (the seals will take at least 1 week to get here). p.s. engine oil that is in the bike is motorex, i only used to put in motul but they didn't had any on stock at the time witch might explain the squeaky clutch when the engine is very hot and i start from a stand still
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'14 EC300 |
#18
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Can you get a better pic of spark plug?
And try draining carb of old fuel in case some water is in fuelbowl.any water in there will make it spit/cough/splutter You could also pull exh pipe off and turn engine over very slow until piston crown is visible.use torch to look for signs of detonation.dont accidentally start it!its very loud,sounds terrible,and fire shoots out the hole! Safer than using kickstart is to remove spark plug,put into gear,then rotate rear wheel until piston crown is visible
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2013 ec200r |
#19
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I took the big camera out to take pics, have a look at them here http://imgur.com/a/BcfQ0
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'14 EC300 |
#20
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Color looks safe enough,(to me at least).if the color is true in pic...a little rich perhaps
Sorry im not more specific but unless theyre in front of you its difficult,even then... they vary depending on oil type,last ride etc. General indicator only. Any sign of metal flecks? Fine grey ring around tip of center electrode is correct ignition timing If there is some form of oil/coolant contamination the color/cond could be skewed a little also
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2013 ec200r |
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