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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 05-03-2016, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ramcclure200 View Post
When you shut the motor off is the pipe smoking?
If so she's hot and running lean
Yes that did happen when it smoked a lot. But that would mean it should happen all the time, not for the 1'st part of the ride ? I'll take the spark plug out and take a pic of it, that should address this issue better.

p.s. if it's lean shouldn't it start hard/run bad on high altitude ? the bike starts first kick every time, hot or cold from 300 up to 1800 meters, i never had a problem regarding this, never had to fiddle with the carb (so it means it's actually running rich right ?)


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  #12  
Old 05-03-2016, 12:40 PM
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Default oil seal

If your oil seals leaking it'll cause the odd odor and smoke
And i would assume could be causing detonation = possible overheating.
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2016, 01:09 PM
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Yes that did happen when it smoked a lot. But that would mean it should happen all the time, not for the 1'st part of the ride ? I'll take the spark plug out and take a pic of it, that should address this issue better.

p.s. if it's lean shouldn't it start hard/run bad on high altitude ? the bike starts first kick every time, hot or cold from 300 up to 1800 meters, i never had a problem regarding this, never had to fiddle with the carb (so it means it's actually running rich right ?)
Well i'm not a jetting expert by any stretch just had an experience when my bike leaned out and eventually seized and it smoked from the pipe when i shut it off. I'm at sea level so no experience with those kind of altitudes but after reading over your post again the other guys may be on to something with the seals going bad!
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:33 PM
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Crankcase drain is seperate from transmission oil so doesnt matter if you have dropped trans oil or not.its useful for draining water when bike has drowned or in your case for eliminating coolant/excess oil fouling the fuel mix
Smoking from pipe after engine off can also occur after a prolonged wot run,esp if there was a lot of slow puttering before.the excess oil buildup gets hot enough to smoulder in pipe.could be,but not necessarily a lean symptom.
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Last edited by barossi73; 05-03-2016 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by poelinca View Post
And that is with the oil already drained or not ? Will do it in a few hours when i get back home and report back. Thanks
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Originally Posted by barossi73 View Post
Crankcase drain is seperate from transmission oil so doesnt matter if you have dropped trans oil or not.its useful for draining water when bike has drowned or in your case for eliminating coolant/excess oil fouling the fuel mix
Smoking from pipe after engine off can also occur after a prolonged wot run,esp if there was a lot of slow puttering before.the excess oil buildup gets hot enough to smoulder in pipe.could be,but not necessarily a lean symptom.
Exactly! The crank case drain is just a hole through the bottom of the cases into the crank case. It's very helpful if the bike gets drowned and filled with water. I've had mine flow like a tap before

If all is as it should be you should only have a small pool of 2T oil pooled in the crank cases, and if the engine has been turned over a few times it should be coating your big end and crank more than running out the drain when you remove the plug. If you are getting water into the crank case you'll see the oil has emulsified and gone creamy like.

I also agree with barossi regarding the pipe smouldering. If I transition from a day in the singles to doing some 5th - 6th wide open I can get enough heat into it to burn off the excess oil. I've also run lean enough to have the bikes power curve dropping flat under load and not had any smoke from the pipe. A lean setup can also cause that too.

In relation to the crank case seal on the rhs, it doesn't really explain why the bike would run poorly in the morning and OK in the afternoon. I would replace this seal and o-ring if you dig deep enough to get to clutch and PV governor. Cases do not need to be split, but the RHS engine case/cover does need to be removed and can be done with the bike laid over on its side. If you are losing significant volumes of oil you can measure what comes out vs what goes in with the transmission oil. If it's being burnt off you'll have the rich smokey condition and poor running along with less trans oil coming out when changing it. I always pour the old oil back into a 1L bottle for a quick crude check.

While a bike shouldn't run with the bung plug in, I must say I have done this too. Bike has fired up a-ok but it's immediately noticeable that the exhaust isn't flowing and I'm sure if you tried to keep it running long enough it would flame out/load up. We've used the method to snuff a husky WR300 that had its kill switch disconnected due to it shorting.

Have you changed filter oil recently? or started over oiling the filters? It's hard to tell by reading if you are saying that the engine just won't rev and is running poorly like it's over fuelling/loading up, or if its mechanically not opening the PV. When my PV stuck wide open the engine truly sounded like a bucket of bolts - not just didn't sound right - it sounded fatal.
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:22 AM
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Drained the crankcase, only a few drips of oil came out. It looks and feels the same as the gear box oil.

As for running lean/hot, here is the spark plug after aprox. 18 hours of usage



LHS PV, it looks like water in there.



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Old 05-04-2016, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Exactly! The crank case drain is just a hole through the bottom of the cases into the crank case. It's very helpful if the bike gets drowned and filled with water. I've had mine flow like a tap before

If all is as it should be you should only have a small pool of 2T oil pooled in the crank cases, and if the engine has been turned over a few times it should be coating your big end and crank more than running out the drain when you remove the plug. If you are getting water into the crank case you'll see the oil has emulsified and gone creamy like.

I also agree with barossi regarding the pipe smouldering. If I transition from a day in the singles to doing some 5th - 6th wide open I can get enough heat into it to burn off the excess oil. I've also run lean enough to have the bikes power curve dropping flat under load and not had any smoke from the pipe. A lean setup can also cause that too.

In relation to the crank case seal on the rhs, it doesn't really explain why the bike would run poorly in the morning and OK in the afternoon. I would replace this seal and o-ring if you dig deep enough to get to clutch and PV governor. Cases do not need to be split, but the RHS engine case/cover does need to be removed and can be done with the bike laid over on its side. If you are losing significant volumes of oil you can measure what comes out vs what goes in with the transmission oil. If it's being burnt off you'll have the rich smokey condition and poor running along with less trans oil coming out when changing it. I always pour the old oil back into a 1L bottle for a quick crude check.

While a bike shouldn't run with the bung plug in, I must say I have done this too. Bike has fired up a-ok but it's immediately noticeable that the exhaust isn't flowing and I'm sure if you tried to keep it running long enough it would flame out/load up. We've used the method to snuff a husky WR300 that had its kill switch disconnected due to it shorting.

Have you changed filter oil recently? or started over oiling the filters? It's hard to tell by reading if you are saying that the engine just won't rev and is running poorly like it's over fuelling/loading up, or if its mechanically not opening the PV. When my PV stuck wide open the engine truly sounded like a bucket of bolts - not just didn't sound right - it sounded fatal.
Air filter and oil were replaced aprox. 15 hours engine time. Yes the air filter might be over oiled. And yes again, when i say it sounds bad regarding the PV, it's just as you described but only from the point where the PV should open, up until then it sounds and runs fine.

I think it's time to clean the PV and exhaust ports, while i'm at it i'll order new crank seals and change the one on the RHS if you say i won't need to split the cases open. It will take a while tough before i'll be able to post any updates and/or ride the bike to see if it fixed the issue (the seals will take at least 1 week to get here).

p.s. engine oil that is in the bike is motorex, i only used to put in motul but they didn't had any on stock at the time witch might explain the squeaky clutch when the engine is very hot and i start from a stand still
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  #18  
Old 05-04-2016, 01:47 AM
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Can you get a better pic of spark plug?
And try draining carb of old fuel in case some water is in fuelbowl.any water in there will make it spit/cough/splutter
You could also pull exh pipe off and turn engine over very slow until piston crown is visible.use torch to look for signs of detonation.dont accidentally start it!its very loud,sounds terrible,and fire shoots out the hole!
Safer than using kickstart is to remove spark plug,put into gear,then rotate rear wheel until piston crown is visible
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Old 05-04-2016, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barossi73 View Post
Can you get a better pic of spark plug?
And try draining carb of old fuel in case some water is in fuelbowl.any water in there will make it spit/cough/splutter
You could also pull exh pipe off and turn engine over very slow until piston crown is visible.use torch to look for signs of detonation.dont accidentally start it!its very loud,sounds terrible,and fire shoots out the hole!
Safer than using kickstart is to remove spark plug,put into gear,then rotate rear wheel until piston crown is visible
Will post pics of the piston crown tonight when i get back home. Here are some better pics of the spark plug. I'll drain the carb and let you guys know what i find in there also.

I took the big camera out to take pics, have a look at them here http://imgur.com/a/BcfQ0
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  #20  
Old 05-04-2016, 07:02 AM
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Color looks safe enough,(to me at least).if the color is true in pic...a little rich perhaps
Sorry im not more specific but unless theyre in front of you its difficult,even then... they vary depending on oil type,last ride etc. General indicator only.
Any sign of metal flecks?
Fine grey ring around tip of center electrode is correct ignition timing
If there is some form of oil/coolant contamination the color/cond could be skewed a little also
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