Power Valve ?

[BigAl]

Hi, I recently Bought a 2005 EC 300, when I bought it the power was what I would call ordinary at Low to mid revs and it would not rev out at all. So First port of call was Clean out Carby and New Jets and Needle( Old Pilot was blocked) checked the reeds while the Carby was off and they looked brand New. Started it up ran a little better of the bottom but still no top. Because it was Rattling like Crazy as well, I pulled the Pipe Off Replaced the Missing Orings ( Looked inside Has New Piston in Bike, No carbon buildup at all) and pulled the power valve cover to check the Common Rattle caused by the lack of Spring tension, it needed adjustment, ordered Gasket did that, while the bike was on its side I noticed that operating the powervalve caused the powervalve to close not open( working in Reverse).

So now to my ? can you reseat (flip it 180 Deg) the back actuater pin without pulling the barrel and does the inside clutch cover have to come of again?

Thanks in advance

Alan

[motopsycho87]

I would say it has to come apart again if it's timed 180 degrees out.

[Jakobi]

Being that you're unfamiliar with the engine, and from what you have already 'found' that isn't right, it may be best to pull it down to do the work and check everything at the same time.

In saying that, you should be able to remove the rhs (pipe side) powervalve cover, disconnect the actuator arm, remove retainer bolt, and then pull the whole drum assembly back out. You may be able to simply remove the retainer bolt/stop and cycle it through to the correct timing.

Note: the nyloc nut on the actuator arm comes off easier wth a little heat. Force has been known to snap the lug from the plate in some instances. Also, pulling up/cycling the powervalve with the arm connected can disloge ball bearings and cause binding at the governor, which then requires rhs engine cover removal to resolve.

[BigAl]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Being that you're unfamiliar with the engine, and from what you have already 'found' that isn't right, it may be best to pull it down to do the work and check everything at the same time.

In saying that, you should be able to remove the rhs (pipe side) powervalve cover, disconnect the actuator arm, remove retainer bolt, and then pull the whole drum assembly back out. You may be able to simply remove the retainer bolt/stop and cycle it through to the correct timing.

Note: the nyloc nut on the actuator arm comes off easier wth a little heat. Force has been known to snap the lug from the plate in some instances. Also, pulling up/cycling the powervalve with the arm connected can disloge ball bearings and cause binding at the governor, which then requires rhs engine cover removal to resolve.

Thanks for that, will give it a go shortly and let all know how it went. Thanks Again.

Alan

[BigAl]

OK the FIX:- Laid bike down on left side making sure not to be on gear selector, removed the rhs (pipe side) powervalve cover, disconnected the actuator arm, removed retainer bolt, lifted the stop plate, rotated keyed rod 1 turn, reseated stop plate on keyed rod, checked power valve now moved in right way. ALL GOOD Tightened her all back up, seems MUCH better.