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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 05-20-2016, 02:18 PM
Munch Munch is offline
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Began stripping it down, came to getting the barrel off and of course I had to de-link the power valve but couldn't figure out how??



From what I could see I had to remove "A" to get the arm off but it was just spinning? I could feel behind the nut and it was spinning too, how am I meant to release it? I checked on the other side of the engine and nothing was moving too!


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  #12  
Old 05-20-2016, 03:47 PM
GGRider01 GGRider01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munch View Post
Began stripping it down, came to getting the barrel off and of course I had to de-link the power valve but couldn't figure out how??

[IMG]

From what I could see I had to remove "A" to get the arm off but it was just spinning? I could feel behind the nut and it was spinning too, how am I meant to release it? I checked on the other side of the engine and nothing was moving too!
Sounds like the weld holding the stud on broke. It's not supposed to spin.

Get a new one on the way (or weld it). Back out "C" and undo the nuts holding on the cylinder. Lift the cylinder a bit and then you might be able to finagle the thing out of there.

The other option is to drill into the stud and use an EZ Out as backup while you loosen the nyloc nut.
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  #13  
Old 05-20-2016, 04:03 PM
Munch Munch is offline
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I definitely won't be able to get that part through the barrel for sure. My only option would be getting the bottom end of the arm off the bottom mechanism and sliding it up with the barrel, will that work do you think?

Is it a common problem for the weld to break? Would it affect the bikes power?
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  #14  
Old 05-20-2016, 04:20 PM
GGRider01 GGRider01 is offline
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I don't know what I was thinking. You'll have to get that nyloc off no matter what. Not sure about pulling the arm up out of the case.

It won't affect power until that stud falls off.
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  #15  
Old 05-20-2016, 04:30 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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Heat the nut to melt the nylon insert part (takes less force to turn after melted out). Use a thin cutting disc on a dremel to slot the shaft. Hold the shaft with a screwdriver and then unscrew the nut.
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  #16  
Old 05-20-2016, 04:47 PM
Munch Munch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
Heat the nut to melt the nylon insert part (takes less force to turn after melted out). Use a thin cutting disc on a dremel to slot the shaft. Hold the shaft with a screwdriver and then unscrew the nut.
Which shaft? The nut is moving the bolt it is screwed onto and not moving anything else. I really can't think of a way to get it off.
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2016, 04:50 PM
GGRider01 GGRider01 is offline
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Get a set of reverse drill bits and drill into the stud. Use a wrench as backup. Best case scenario, the drill bit turns the stud and your nut backs off. Second best case is you use an EZ out in your newly drilled stud to back the nut off.

Last edited by GGRider01; 05-20-2016 at 06:07 PM.
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  #18  
Old 05-20-2016, 05:43 PM
Munch Munch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGRider01 View Post
Get a set of reverse drill bits and drill into the stud. Use a wrench as backup. Best case scenario, the drill but turns the stud and your nut backs off. Second best case is you use an EZ out in your newly drilled stud to back the nut off.
So I get something into the stud and then with something into the stud I move the nut and hope it comes off is what you are saying?
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  #19  
Old 05-20-2016, 06:09 PM
GGRider01 GGRider01 is offline
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Yeah. Neil's method sounds pretty easy too, and you're more likely to have a dremel than reverse drill bits. However, EZ outs don't care if the hole was drilled in reverse or not
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  #20  
Old 05-20-2016, 06:19 PM
Munch Munch is offline
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That seems like my only option but before I jump into that in the pic below do you know if I can remove the thing circled in red? I think if I can disconnect that somehow I can pull the barrel off and the arm will come up with it.

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