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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #21  
Old 11-02-2010, 01:51 PM
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hmm. i wonder how much it would cost to get it to the states.


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  #22  
Old 11-02-2010, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by iancp5 View Post
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLUTCH-FRICTIO...707790ff8d8ab4


http://www.trialendurodirect.com/ind...h=15_17&page=2

But any Gas Gas dealer should be able to sort you out. Last set I bought from a dealer were about the same price. Maybe they don't get them from the factory. Either way they worked fine and didn't need any modification. If the DP ones are as good as their brake pads they should be excellent.
Those don't look to be OEM, there were aftermarket plates here in the states for GG, but I wanted to do the Honda upgrade because the aftermarket GG plates are slightly thinner and seem to be the ones that break or grove out the basket. By adding a bit of thickness (10% thicker) to them it supposedly really strengthens things up.
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:02 PM
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im curious, has anybody converted to a honda basket? ive heard a few mentions about the subject, but nothing definate. im very tempted to try it.
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  #24  
Old 11-02-2010, 06:28 PM
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i seriously doubt the basket drive gear will work, but there is always that chance.... both the gasgas and honda use a 21t primary gear so, it is possible...
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  #25  
Old 11-02-2010, 08:33 PM
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if i can find an old basket, even one thats shot, i may try it. if i do i will post an update on here.
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  #26  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:46 AM
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I called half a dozen dealers to see if one had the washer and would measure it, but no one did. I have 2 GG, one with a good clutch, and what I am thinking about doing is taking the good set out and adding 4 of the newer, thicker clutch plates to the bottom of the stack because thats seems to be the ones that break, and taking the 4 that I take out and putting on the outside of the other bike with the 4 new ones again in the bottom. This may or may not give me enough clearance, but I figure its worth a try.....

I wonder if you had a piece of round stock around 1mm longer than the clutch rod if it would work with the full pack of thicker clutches or is the problem not with how far it pushes but more of a clearance issue?
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  #27  
Old 11-04-2010, 07:51 PM
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Default OK guys, I may have an easy fix

Got my clutch kit in today, $50 for a Tusk from Rocky Mtn ATV for a 92ish Honda CR250R including new springs and metal plates. First I just went ahead and put them in to see what happened. The slave cylinder bumped all the way out and didn't engage at all. The clutch felt like a brake. Pressed the clutch rod back into the engine with a screwdriver and noticed it went way further than a millimeter or 2 back so I figured I had room to work with.

So what I did was basically extend the clutch rod by cutting a short section of the tailpiece of a 1/4" drill bit (3 mm I would guess, and the hardest thing I had) and dropped it in the hollow clutch pin where the rod engages the throwout bearing. The clutch felt good as new after that. I watched it engage/disengage and it looked like there was a lot of movement but it totally engaged once released. I also was able to work the kick start with my hand with the bike in gear with the clutch pulled.

I have to take it back apart and bend the tab over on the lock washer and will take a few pics in case someone doesn't understand what did. I would be really nice if we could find some kind of shim that was about 8mmx2mm and solid and hard. Anyone have an idea? Rack your brains guys for a reason this won't work, I can't think of any. I am assuming the clutch has a lot of movement to allow this to work, like a brake caliper does.
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  #28  
Old 11-05-2010, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendunn View Post

So what I did was basically extend the clutch rod by cutting a short section of the tailpiece of a 1/4" drill bit (3 mm I would guess, and the hardest thing I had) and dropped it in the hollow clutch pin where the rod engages the throwout bearing. The clutch felt good as new after that. I watched it engage/disengage and it looked like there was a lot of movement but it totally engaged once released. I also was able to work the kick start with my hand with the bike in gear with the clutch pulled.
with this method do the clutch springs/bolts rub the clutch cover?
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  #29  
Old 11-05-2010, 07:54 AM
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with this method do the clutch springs/bolts rub the clutch cover?
I haven't started the bike yet, but I put the cover on and it seemed to clear, but I figure I can either make a thicker or add another gasket if need be.
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  #30  
Old 11-05-2010, 08:58 AM
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Good job! All thats needed is to get the clutch slave to travel within its range. We did the same thing on a Husky TE450, stock clutch just screwed up at the factory with a short push rod. For shims, ball bearings work great if the size works out, so if 9mm is OK then 3 x 3mm balls, etc. Other than that, you can cut a piece from a steel rod, clean it up, heat it and quench it in oil to case harden it. Look in mcmaster.com.
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