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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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Clutch issue
Ok bear with me guys n gals. This is my first bike with a hydra clutch .its a 2017 ec300. It doesnt even have an hour on it yet .I cant figure out why in the world the clutch pulls like it does when i try starting it in gear . Ive adjusted all the settings on the lever making it closer all the way out, nothing . Im just confused. How to i set where the grab is on the lever . Im used to the old ways of cables and a twister adjustment! . Any help would be greatly appreciated .
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#2
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Heya.
Well it could be the basket is a little sharp and grabbing the plates and little. Maybe some hours might help. Or it could be the clutch needs a bleed (fluid type written on Mc top. Often mineral oil rather than brake fluid) Also read oil threads. I find Motul Transoil Expert works great but Transoil standard drags. Good luck and stick around to read the jetting threads. You won't believe how much better a different needle will make the bike run.
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'07 EC300 GG '14 TXT250 GG '? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid '22 765 Street Triple RS '21 XTrainer '69 Stinger T125 Suzuki '23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing) |
#3
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What exactly is the issue? Is the bike hard to start in gear? That's normal for a wet plate clutch. Is the clutch engaging/disengaging too early or late? That should be an adjustment at the lever, or it could be too new of a clutch and needs to wear in. Is the bike hard to push around when in gear and not running? Again, it could be that the plates are too new.
Automotive motor oil will cause the clutch to drag as well as the fact that your bike is still wearing in (as F5 mentions). Try another oil, such as ATF or a blend of ATF and motor oil. I prefer a 75/25 blend of 10w30/ATF. Even a 90wt gear oil (or 80) might work for you. I would suggest riding the bike for a few hours and see how it does. Not be dismissive, not at all, but a new bike might need some time to fully settle in. For example, the suspension requires about 10-12 hours to really "break in," so go and ride it and see if the clutch changes.
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Phil (New bike pending...) |
#4
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You'd be amazed how many people don't realise how much drag there is on a clutch until they go to push their bike in gear with the engine off, clutch pulled and think OMG something is wrong.
On a cold engine it is most noticeable as the plates have had time to stick together. I usually rock the bike a few times before I start her to reduce intial drag. With the oil I run it's never an issue when at temp. |
#5
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Thanks for everyone replies i truely appreciate it .it just seems to want to lurch forwards when i start it this was even after being warmed up for about 10 min and riddenndrom my house to my garage
I was just playing with it to make adjust ment for harescramble starts and it just seemed wonky to me . Ill try everything u guys said thanks you very much ! |
#6
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Like others have said, put some break in time on it.
Some of us have had problems with the AJP clutch master cylinder not holding pressure on 14/15's. Mine lasted for a day, some ride time will tell.
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15 GASGAS EC 250 19 Sherco SE 125R |
#7
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I took a die grinder and cleaned up between every pad on the fiber discs on my wifes 11 250. The clutch is now better than anything I have ever used. It takes some time but did wonders.
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#8
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Cleaning out between the pads so the grooves go down to the base material?
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2011 EC250E |
#9
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You got it Neil.
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#10
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Quote:
Enviado de meu SM-G935F usando Tapatalk |
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