2018 tech tips and tricks.

[5valve]

Rear spokes need retightening, already mentioned.
My case was, 9 spokes locked up, previous owner neglect. Whole spoke was turning.
Liberal heating the nipples with torch, while holding the spokes with grip locking pliers, they could be freed and tightened.
2 were really nasty, so removed completely, cleaned treads, anti seize compound, an it was all set.


Starter motor clicking, even with Lion battery, increased cabling and fine tuning the bendix rotation.
Disassemble the motor, clean thorougly, apply new heat resistant grease to needle bearing and bushing.
Put the rotor in table drill, give it a spin and use sandpaper, to clean the brush contact area (comutator). It should be smooth and shiny.
Be sure to remove possible contact particles between individual comutator contacts. Use stanley type knife.
Recommend doing this every 10-20 hrs, depending on starting volume and water penetration. Check brushes also.


Disconnect lower shock and linkage forks. Check for free movement of "L" linkage. Mine was binding a lot, bearings were intact and lubed.
Removed 0.9mm distancing shim. They are on both sides of the bushing, one was enough. Movement completely free and still a tight fit, without free play.


New style plastics won't fall away, since they now use a tab on the rear of both side number covers in combination with rear fender.


If riding tight enduro, remove the light switch, if you have enduro rotating type, and place it freely behind the front mask, use some zip ties. Its quite costly to replace at 70?.


Using plastic swingarm protector might do more bad than good if riding wet, muddy conditions. Only useful for dry rocky aplication.


Clean air filter regularly, a no brainer, and make sure to heat up the bike properly, or piston will be slapping a lot sooner than needed, due to uneven expansion of piston to cylinder. I'm replacing A piston @ 60hrs, worn to 71.88 (from 71.94). Luckily, cylinder could be polished to former glory with no excessive wear. Previous owner neglect, might I add.


Cylinder gasket, the metal one, 0.5mm, can be reused. Just degrease it, dry it and apply heat resistant spray to both sides. Once heated up, it will bond and seal. Its a hurry up solution, working flawlessly. Use new, if not in a hurry or parts available.

[swazi_matt]

"Using plastic swingarm protector might do more bad than good if riding wet, muddy conditions. Only useful for dry rocky aplication"

I used a plastic swingarm protector for about 9 years and never took it off, but i did put a liberal amount of duct tape on the swingarm before putting the protector on. Took a while to remove the glue, but other than that the swingarm was still like new (except where i had actually worn through the guard)

[5valve]

Added orings behind seals on swingarm. Enough space, inner bearings needed just a little push inwards.
Its hard to source correct seals, but still easier than ordering OEM in these times.

[gasgasman]

Originally Posted by 5valve

Added orings behind seals on swingarm. Enough space, inner bearings needed just a little push inwards.
Its hard to source correct seals, but still easier than ordering OEM in these times.

O-rings are a better option than the seals.

[5valve]

Yes, if you can anchor them. They tend to move outwards

[5valve]

Has anyone increased size of the breather "jet", located left side power valve.
It seems pretty small hole, and of course it was clogged useless.
Old bike had bigger caliber, and I believe also bigger drain hole in cylinder wall.

Stock S3 piston ring ends are close together and travel through port, while vertex has them spaced, never leaving the wall.

[Gasser Nate]

That jet is just a drain, the hose is clamped off from the factory make sure it is open. Never had a need to make it bigger.
Re the rings, most manufacturers have differing thoughts on them. Some have the gaps in constant contact with the wall, which I prefer, others have them passing over the transfer/boost ports. They are small enough that it isn?t an issue.