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  #11  
Old 06-21-2017, 01:19 AM
masterbill masterbill is offline
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Hello,

I have read that these bikes can have jetting issues and that people use a JD jetting kit. That's why I asked on here

Will read the jetting threads and take it from there.

Cheers Bill


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  #12  
Old 06-21-2017, 03:25 AM
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I click new posts.
Now I see you've posted in UK section.
Yeah have a look around, there's heaps of info, but try needles suggested here rather than bought kits.
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  #13  
Old 06-21-2017, 10:20 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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To eliminate the possibility of chain noise, add a thin piece of foam weatherstripping under the swingarm chain guide. 3mm thick by 20mm wide will do nicely. As previously mentioned the swingarm creates a rattling sound at low RPM.

If you are riding at low throttle/too high a gear in order to keep the engine from buzzing, you could have this chain noise.
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  #14  
Old 06-21-2017, 10:24 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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As to timing, assuming you have the 2K3 flywheel, the stator plate is located by an oval washer on one of the mounting bolts. There is a slight possibility that a previous owner elongated the bolt hole to rotate the stator plate.
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  #15  
Old 06-21-2017, 01:13 PM
masterbill masterbill is offline
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Hello,

Thanks for all the info, looks like I'll be busy this weekend

cheers Bill
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  #16  
Old 06-24-2017, 11:43 AM
masterbill masterbill is offline
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Hello again,

Well I had carb off, it was set as Gas Gas standard. Main 175,Idle 42,Needle N1EF 3rd from top.
Checked float height , set at 16mm .

Fuel pipe fell apart when I took it off ! , it appears to me that it's an 8mm pipe.
I have only only 6mm pipe.

I decided to repack the silencer, a fair amount of oily gunge is present around the exit. - it's one of those jobs that you wish you hadn't started!. Anyway got it apart and the rear by the exit is really coked up.

I have ordered some correct size pop rivets and some fuel pipe, I also need chain and sprockets plus a rear tyre.

Now going back to what I said about modern 2 Strokes - I find it interesting that the jetting for the 200 ,250 and 300 is the same , according to the Gas gas owners manual the only difference is the throttle valve/slide on the 200.

So the 200 has the same main jet as the 300! Seems strange to me.

Cheers bill
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  #17  
Old 06-24-2017, 05:28 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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N1EF is not a good needle. You will get a lot of spooge and poor low speed operation.
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  #18  
Old 06-25-2017, 02:35 AM
masterbill masterbill is offline
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Hello,

I've read the posts on jetting and I will get a CCK needle that seems to be a good choice.

The plan is to put it back together, new plugs and mark the throttle at 1/4, 1/2 3/4 and WO. Do a plug chop and see what's what.
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  #19  
Old 06-25-2017, 03:04 PM
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You are wasting your time with that needle. Proven time and again.
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  #20  
Old 06-25-2017, 04:20 PM
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There is a thread running currently.. http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22742

You need to compare apples to apples. There have been numerous updates to crank volume, port layout, head clearances, etc over the years. There are also a couple different carb models fitted over time as well, and if you go back I'm sure the older engines probably ran different reed valves too. What worked in the early 2000's isn't relevant anymore.

Stock gas gas jetting leaves a lot to be desired. It appears they have an endless supply of N1EF needles and put them into everything. They might work well somewhere, but I haven't found it. Too short on the straight section makes for a hard to set idle. Way too rich on the diameter. Wayyy too rich on the first taper encourages you to lift the needle to clean up off idle. This typically leaves it too lean in the mid range... or you run too rich off idle and it loads up and won't pull clean into the mid top.

Suzuki/Ktm-Yamaha series needles will get you 2 or 3 tapered OEM needles which will allow you to fine tune in half clip positions and any diameter you need, for about $10 a piece.
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