Front brake dragging or bearings or both?

[Fred1956]

Also check for a bent rotor in the front as well, if the piston pushes back in cleanly/easily you shouldn't need a rebuild Take the caliper off and then spin the wheel to isolate the brakes from the bearings

& just my opinion-a 6.2 on the back is waaaay to big a spring, I saw you and you aren't that big i.e. I'm 195# and run a 5.4....

[PEB]

+1 on the bent rotor, if it isn't bent to badly you can bend it back. A big crescent wrench should do the job.

[Bandit9]

The rotor isn't bent. There is no pulsing. It is a constant drag. I think the pistons are sticking the more I look at it.

Thanks for the compliment Fred, but the scale don't lie. 238 lbs this morning. I'm 6'1", so it spreads out.

As soon as I get the brake issue and a longer chain, then the process can be resumed. I too felt like 6.2 was too big, especially when paired with .48 forks. Would expect to see .50 with a 6.2. However, that was what my guy recommended. So we will do further testing to find out.

[Bandit9]

Well the pistons were not stuck. I can move them in and out with my thumbs. I put a little lube on them and worked them in and out a few times. Pins were clean and greased. Pad pin isn't grooved or anything. Cleaned and reassembled and it is better and spins more freely. Still not as free as my WR next to it. The lever still feels crunchy and sticky. I'm thinking the MC needs to be rebuilt.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by Bandit9

Well the pistons were not stuck. I can move them in and out with my thumbs. I put a little lube on them and worked them in and out a few times. Pins were clean and greased. Pad pin isn't grooved or anything. Cleaned and reassembled and it is better and spins more freely. Still not as free as my WR next to it. The lever still feels crunchy and sticky. I'm thinking the MC needs to be rebuilt.

You'd be surprised what a little love applied to the pivot and anvil/cup of the lever will do. Disassemble, clean, grease and reassemble. Remove the brake light switch if you haven't already. Run three times as much fluid as you think you need to through it while you're bleeding it. Revel in your new-found brake goodness.

[Bandit9]

Originally Posted by twowheels

You'd be surprised what a little love applied to the pivot and anvil/cup of the lever will do. Disassemble, clean, grease and reassemble. Remove the brake light switch if you haven't already. Run three times as much fluid as you think you need to through it while you're bleeding it. Revel in your new-found brake goodness.

I removed the lever and cleaned and greased. While it is a little better, there is still a binding feeling when the lever is pulled all the way in.

There is a KTM shop in town. I'm guessing the Brembo parts crossover? How do I know what size MC I have?

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by Bandit9

I removed the lever and cleaned and greased. While it is a little better, there is still a binding feeling when the lever is pulled all the way in.

There is a KTM shop in town. I'm guessing the Brembo parts crossover? How do I know what size MC I have?

You should be travelling to your local Japanese dealer if anything - your bike *should* have Nissin brake components.

[Bandit9]

Aaahhhhh! Not only that, but it's Magura not Brembo.

Trying to do too many things at one time.....

[Bandit9]

So are all the Japanese Nissin MC the same size?

[noobi]

Originally Posted by Bandit9

So are all the Japanese Nissin MC the same size?

No, they are not. Well, they might be the same piston size, but the rebuild kits for them are not all the same.
The part number of the genuine GasGas rebuild kit is BC25922219

As for the Magura clutch master, KTM did use Magura stuff on their earlier models, and the levers and rebuild kits should cross over. A few members have scrapped the stock AJP master in favour of a Magura master of similar or slightly larger diameter.