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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing.


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  #11  
Old 04-25-2016, 03:21 AM
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I've got some decent allen sockets, the old hit it with a hammer impact driver, and a couple electric impacts of various strengths. I'll be hitting here with the heat gun first up and seeing how much it takes to get it apart. If the in tact one causes issues at least I'll know what I'm up against when it comes to the broken one!


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  #12  
Old 04-25-2016, 06:01 AM
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Little heat and the Loctite is broken. First bolt is out. The bracket itself is mangled and cracked the entire length. I think I will probably replace both sides for peace of mind (and possibly weld them too).

The sheered bolt is giving me curry already. Using a carbide bit have managed to get it started, but its going to be slow going.. and then at least cleaning the threads up, but more likely helicoil time. Access to the rear of the bolt is a right pain too!
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:26 AM
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I just found both bolts on the right footpeg of my 2014 loose, and about to fall out. There was certainly no locktite on mine
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  #14  
Old 04-26-2016, 12:43 AM
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Must be the week for it. I stuffed up a steep rockface yesterday, bike hit the deck on the left hand side and started sliding backwards, footpegs aren't designed to bend that way so both bolt heads holding the footpeg bracket to the frame sheared.
Luckily it was a play rock only a k or two of firetrail back to the cars and it was the end of the ride. Still an awkward ride!
Let me know how you go getting the snapped bolt out. I've got two of them to tackle!
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  #15  
Old 04-26-2016, 02:12 AM
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Nice work Nath! I think I have cracked my other side too (the actual bracket) so will be replacing both of them.

I have only spent a bit of time working on it so far. Making some progress with a carbide bit and then following with a 3.5mm drill bit. Eventually I'll work the drill size up to where I need to be. I don't like the odds of the threads coming out in good condition when I'm done so I think it'll be a helicoil through, and possibly a longer screw with a nut on the back. Tack welding in a couple places may be worth while.

Interestingly, the part numbers between the 13 and 15 have changed yet spec up the same size. I wonder if perhaps they have revised the material used.

PS. I've sheered a pivot peg off at the frame once, deep into a ride. I know the feeling of getting back on one peg! Strange feeling indeed.
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  #16  
Old 04-26-2016, 05:01 AM
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The 14/15 have invertible (is that a word?)mounts making for 2 slightly diff peg positions.i assumed as yours were bolted thats what you had.are yours reversible?
My 13s are welded only so perhaps the later part no is the bolted,the earlier no might be the welded.or not...
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  #17  
Old 04-26-2016, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barossi73 View Post
The 14/15 have invertible (is that a word?)mounts making for 2 slightly diff peg positions.i assumed as yours were bolted thats what you had.are yours reversible?
My 13s are welded only so perhaps the later part no is the bolted,the earlier no might be the welded.or not...
Yeah I think they can be flipped to change peg height. Will have to check. I'll update tomorrow with some pics of the damage. Lucky I didn't lose the whole peg!
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Old 04-26-2016, 08:11 AM
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Jake, my '13 300 doesn't have removable mounts. They are welded to the frame. I wonder why the difference?

Is there room between the peg and the mount to use a flange bolt? That might help distribut the load more and prevent future failures. It kind of looks like the crack started in the taper. I could be wrong though.

Also, I wonder what are the chances of a YZ250 peg mount fitting? Considering the pegs all crossover.
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  #19  
Old 04-26-2016, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shang View Post
Jake, my '13 300 doesn't have removable mounts. They are welded to the frame. I wonder why the difference?

Is there room between the peg and the mount to use a flange bolt? That might help distribut the load more and prevent future failures. It kind of looks like the crack started in the taper. I could be wrong though.

Also, I wonder what are the chances of a YZ250 peg mount fitting? Considering the pegs all crossover.
Maybe I have a 2014 frame More likely just Gas Gas doing what they do shipping different configs to different distributers.

I don't think a flange would help much unless if you could fill the relief in the bracket first. Like you said, would probably be tight clearance with pegs too.

Very good info on the YZ items. Could be a valid crossover. I've already got the GG 15 items on hold though and they price up very similarly to a new set of Yamaha ones so I'll probably go that route. I may still take some measurements for comparisons sake.
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  #20  
Old 04-27-2016, 12:36 AM
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My left eye was a bit sore this morning and on closer inspection realised I had something stuck in there. Off to the optometrists and discovered a set of insect wings had lodged itself into my cornea. Anyway, this lead me to town so while there I invested in the right tools for the job after spending way too long making slow progress with a standard high speed drill bit making a pilot (3.5mm).

Grabbed a 4.5mm and 6mm cobalt drill bit. Set me back the best part of a $20 but well worth the time savings. All out with the threads still in tact. A quick run through with the M8 tap and it's looking happy days.

Ordered up a set of 15 mounts, and a few various other parts. Shouldn't be off the run too long at all.
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