Adding an E-start

[desertgasser300]

I am adding an E-start to my 12' 300. I have the starter, bendix, the PV cover and the fly wheel pretty much all the hard parts. I do not have any of the electronics. Are there any guru's out here that can give me a list of what electronics I need to make this happen? And what hooks to what wire goes were? A diagram in crayon would be most helpful......

Starter button
Starter relay(can I use from an orange bike?)
Battery
Battery cables
and ??????? what else?

FWIW, I have read ALL the bad things about the GasGas starters and the bendix. I did manage to figure out the bendix problem as it wasn't engaging when I got the kit. And now after figuring it out it engages(from a car battery) every time.

In the photo below the space that is pointed out with the screw driver. I found that this can not have any play up or down. The bendix needs to be seated tightly in there. If any play is in it the bendix will just spin freely without engaging. Is this what anyone else has found to be the case? It might be that over repeated use the space that the bendix sits in get worn out and creates just enough play to spin without engagement?

[Neil E.]

DG300,
Be aware that the gap you show should NOT be shimmed closed. Take the bendix unit and cam it ALL the way open. Note that the thrust force from the cam groove pushes the lower heavy washer against the wire retaining clip.

You want the fully entended length to be equal or LESS than the available space from the cap underside to the boss in the cover. If you add more shims, the camming force will wedge the bendix unit against the cover. This results in LESS cranking force since the thrust washer friction will consume energy.

I've measured all the various parts of the system and there is plenty of travel with that small gap left stock. I originally had the same idea as you, but the measurements show it's correct. Perhaps you could add one or two thin shims, but they would not make a significant difference (until the bendix binds up).

Getting the ring and pinion teeth closer together is a good idea, but would only work if you machined the cover boss deeper and added the shims on the top side (still making sure there is enough space for the fully extended bendix).

As mentioned in other posts, the initial engagement speed controlled by the flywheight spring is what's important (once the tooth gap has been set). Your parts list is good, perhaps add a fuse to the low current side of the starter system. The general parts do not have to be manufacturer specific.

[nambo-trev]

Hey Neil can you let me know on the estart bikes where they mount the reg/rectifier and the relay block? I'm assuming the new voltage reg goes where the old one went but where does the factory mount the starter relay?

[n_green]

On my '11 it's all attached to the subframe within the airbox. Relay and fuse is on the rhs near the cdi.

[Neil E.]

Correct, relay on the right, regulator on the left. You can see the trailtech full-wave mounted using the upper hole in the bracket. I went back to the stock half-wave mounted using the lower hole in the bracket (left side). The relay sits below the CDI unit (right side). There is a rubber holder around it that engages with a tab molded into the airbox.

[nambo-trev]

Thanks for the pics Neil big help!

[adv rider]

Did you buy a kit, to add e-start? or is it more cost effective to buy parts separately? I like the idea of e-start if it can be made to work reliably.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by adv rider

Did you buy a kit, to add e-start? or is it more cost effective to buy parts separately? I like the idea of e-start if it can be made to work reliably.

There should be a fair few kits available - look around the 'parts for sale' or post in the 'want to buy' sections for take-off kits. They are also available 'new-in-box'.

[nambo-trev]

Originally Posted by adv rider

Did you buy a kit, to add e-start? or is it more cost effective to buy parts separately? I like the idea of e-start if it can be made to work reliably.

I bought the kit from mark less the subframe and the battery. I like the room the battery under the seat provides and the battery I wanted was the shorai so I saved quite q few bucks going this way. I think used set ups are good as well just make sure your getting every last thing a Bendix will cost you 250 and a voltage/rectifer will cost you 200 etc etc. I wanted to have a fresh Bendix and ring gear so I went new and am guaranteed to have all my parts and gaskets!