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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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Old 03-22-2014, 06:47 AM
28gasser250 28gasser250 is offline
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Default Crappy air filter design

2013 GasGas ec250e

Is it me or is the air filter installation a bit of a pain?
God forbid I'd ever have to change it in a race or I'd definitely be last!!!

Anyone have any tips for changing it quickly or is there any upgrade kits available to make my life easier!


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Old 03-22-2014, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 28gasser250 View Post
2013 GasGas ec250e

Is it me or is the air filter installation a bit of a pain?
God forbid I'd ever have to change it in a race or I'd definitely be last!!!

Anyone have any tips for changing it quickly or is there any upgrade kits available to make my life easier!

Yes it is
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:02 AM
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Just remove the one bolt on the seat and pop the spring loaded pin out. I don't know how they could make it any easier. I wish they would make the air filter more oval shaped though so it slid in and out of the air box a little easier.
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:10 AM
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I bought the TwinAir Billet AL frame for mine.

Can you be more clear about what it is you don't like?

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...hlight=twinair


http://www.trialendurodirect.com/pro...nufacturers=51
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:36 AM
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The battery box/tray on the 2011 completely obscures the spring pin on the air filter. Without the battery tray there is no issue, I assume the same on the later bikes.
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:37 AM
desertgasser300 desertgasser300 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 28gasser250 View Post
2013 GasGas ec250e

Is it me or is the air filter installation a bit of a pain?
God forbid I'd ever have to change it in a race or I'd definitely be last!!!

Anyone have any tips for changing it quickly or is there any upgrade kits available to make my life easier!
No, cause anyone on a jap bike would take longer then you! 13' Kawa 2 bolts for the seat 1 bolt for a side plate and 1 long screw for the air filter. Must be you? GasGas has a solid air filter design. The orange and blue bike's have had filter problems because they try and make it too easy to change quickly.

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Last edited by desertgasser300; 03-22-2014 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 03-22-2014, 02:35 PM
28gasser250 28gasser250 is offline
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@StuJohnson ....... Its just fiddly, it's hard to position correctly & locate it first time with no gaps, it's not ideal for racing, would be better if like on the older versions the side panel on the air box came off so there's more room & vision to work


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Old 03-22-2014, 03:38 PM
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It just seems that way. Its really a solid design. Drop the filter in sideways, spin and locate the bottom pin of the filter frame. Then roll the top against the boot and put the spring clip on. Quick once around with the fingers to ensure the cage is seated and its done.

The way the filter actually rolls over the cage and presses against the boot lip makes it really hard to not get a good seal. Its hard to 'trust' that its on right as its hard to see.

My mates 2011 TE300, now that was a fidly design and awkward to get a good seal on.
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:59 PM
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Default Crappy air filter design

I use filter skins. Cuts down on filter changes big time. And in a race situation you can pull a skin off and leave the filter and cage still inside the airbox. So it's pretty quick to reinstall.

The battery tray makes it more difficult, but if you figure out exactly what your trying to grab it does make it easier.
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Old 03-22-2014, 04:09 PM
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The AL twinair frame solves any gaps issue.
If you take a close look it has more pins and leaves no room for error.


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