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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc. |
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#11
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You should jet the bike from the bottom up.
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#12
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Spend some time reading>http://www.chicagostories.net/ericgo...%20Tuning.html it will either make you understand or confuse the crap out of you.
if you have a boooooooowwwwg......your lean.....fatten it up on the pilot jet. I checked my jetting log notes......178m 45p LTR needle #7 slide The LTR needle is a needle that was supplied in a jetting kit by Less@LTR.....NO longer available.....
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Rick 99 EC 200 06 RM 250 AMA D36 375X OTHG 375S ***Thanks for the support : Twin Air /O'Neil Racing / Race 100% / Matrix Concepts / ODI / Mika Metals |
#13
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Quote:
This is the main issue I am having.......When it goes boooooooowwwwg and falls flat, it means lean. But since I can start the bike cold with no choke it means it is rich, so which one is it? Why am I getting rich readings and lean readings? NOTHING that I have read addresses what I am dealing with. One thing that I am not seeing anywhere. Is the lower # ie...#35 Pilot vs #40 pilot leaner or richer? I had a #35 in it and move to a #40, so did I fatten or lean it? Same for main jet, which direction is lean and which is rich?
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"There is no room in life for Regret, it's a useless feeling that leads to a negative attitude" I would rather call it the "Stupid Tax"! |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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and on needle.. leanest clip position is top .. richest is bottom
and here is some needle info in regards to the ltr needle and useable options.. in my area, the cek needle worked great on those year bikes.. (mine was a 250 and a 300 tho ) http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...ght=ltr+needle
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broken down over 60 slow rider.. |
#16
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Quote:
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#17
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That's what I was looking for. Reading so many different threads and articles about jetting, none of them said lower was leaner......It was just implied that we should know it.....lol
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"There is no room in life for Regret, it's a useless feeling that leads to a negative attitude" I would rather call it the "Stupid Tax"! |
#18
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Yep. Last one i had i loaned to a guy on a ktm 300 as a trial over a year ago. I think he is keeping it lol
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broken down over 60 slow rider.. |
#19
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Quote:
AS1 carb? Is that the same as the PWK38? CEK, is that a KTM needle? I was talking to my dealers that are local, I asked about some needles and was looked at like I have a third eye!
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"There is no room in life for Regret, it's a useless feeling that leads to a negative attitude" I would rather call it the "Stupid Tax"! |
#20
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This is what I would do.
My stock '01 Xc 200 had 40 pilot. It had a fast, hanging idle for a few seconds, then would shut off. Adjusting the air screw made no difference. When riding it, it was very weak on the bottom and sounded like a pipey 125, then had a hard mid range hit. I installed a #42 pilot (one step richer), set the air screw at 1.5 turns out and just turned the idle screw in enough to keep the bike running. After starting the bike, I let it run for a few minutes with fan set up to blow air through the radiators, then I slowly turned the air screw in till the bike started running badly and then backed it out till it ran smoothly again. (One full turn out in my case) At that point, set your idle screw for the desired idle speed in neutral. If it starts well, idles well, pulls and accelerates well from closed throttle to 1/8 throttle (or so), then that part is done. Then you're ready for the mid range. Does it pull OK at 1/3 or 1/2 throttle? If so, leave the needle alone. If it dies, or you hear it rattling or trying to run hot, it's too lean. raise the needle by dropping the clip one notch. If ,otoh, it blubbers and sounds like it's flooding, do the opposite and raise the clip one notch, that'll lean out the mid range. After you get that done, then do your open throttle test. If it falls on it's face or runs out of gas, go up one step on the main, like from 178 to 180. If it blubbers and sounds like it's flooding, then drop down one size. Take it a step at a time, starting from the bottom, like gasgasxc advised you to do. Your goal, at this stage is to get it running well. Not perfect, or tuned for a race, just good enough that you can get out and ride and get some time on the bike. The fine tuning for optimum power can come later. My bike ran like crap. One step richer on the pilot changed everything for the better. Sometimes one little change can be all you need. RB |
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