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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #11  
Old 09-24-2017, 07:19 AM
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Hi F5, completely off topic this...

I see you have a RZ/RGV hybrid, would love to see some photos of it, can you send me some?

I've owned a RD350LC, 2x 350YPVS, an RGV250 and an RG500. I just love 2 strokes!

All the best, Dave.


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  #12  
Old 09-24-2017, 07:31 AM
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Ummmm Errrrrrrr Ahhhhhh
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  #13  
Old 09-24-2017, 07:15 PM
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Sure pm email address.
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zman View Post
He needs to remove the brass seat not the needle. The brass seat is sealed to the aluminum carb body with an o-ring that has gone bad in his carb.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...x=0&ajaxhist=0
Aha, thanks for the clarification. I didn't know it was like that, but now I do.
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2017, 08:55 AM
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You need to thread the brass seat with a tap, put a screw in it and pull.
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  #16  
Old 09-28-2017, 10:07 PM
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Well looky, the latest Practical Sportsbike magazine has just such an article.
Its working on a Kawi ZRX which has Keihin CV carbs but principle is the same.
Apparently an M7 tap fits nice, screw in a bolt and heatgun the area and yank. Ideally with a slide hammer but shouldn't need one.

Only drama is M7 bolts are hard to come by. However my Marzochi triple clamps had them so borrow one.

The got a replacement from NRP carb parts in UK. You'd have to measure it and request if equivalent available. They measured how far it was pushed in and copied that with the new part.

Also thinking. . . was it leaking around the side? Shouldn't really with an interference fit. Wonder if you could seal that with a suitable wick in Loctite or similar that could cope with the petrol. Not thread lock, they do heaps of other stuff.
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  #17  
Old 09-29-2017, 07:44 AM
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M7 is close to 1/4"
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  #18  
Old 09-29-2017, 02:51 PM
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That sounds like that method will require him to replace the seat?
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  #19  
Old 09-29-2017, 04:26 PM
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Isn't that what he was trying to do? I did give solution to try before that method.
Another on they mentioned that I haven't tried is a cotton bud in a battery drill with some metal polish.
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'23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing)
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  #20  
Old 09-29-2017, 04:45 PM
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Well if you really want to fool around, epoxy the valve seat closed (quality epoxy), then warm the carb body. Insert high pressure air at the normal inlet and see if that dislodges the seat.

A better choice would be to get a soldering tip down there and solder up the seat bore. Then have a go with heat and compressed air. Either of these methods might allow you to save the seat and just replace the oring. If you need more force and can adapt a nipple to the normal inlet, a grease gun can provide hydraulic pressure.

With the seat out you can burn off the expoxy or melt the solder.

Something else to try would be soldering a threaded stud to the seat and using a nut to draw the seat out. Or use a long stud and rig it up as a slide hammer.

Never give up! That's how we learn to do stuff.
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