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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #41  
Old 06-25-2017, 04:08 PM
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Great work.

Can't say I've seen egg whites in fork oil before. Have seen fluid that has sat in the forks for a while get quite thick and snot like in texture though.


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  #42  
Old 07-15-2017, 08:19 AM
swazi_matt swazi_matt is offline
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I am busy servicig my forks, anyone let me know whow much oil to put in the outer fork tubes. is 300ml a good start for a slow rock rider?

PS i had lots of eggwhite slime come out of my forks, but that might be because the seals lasted so well
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  #43  
Old 07-15-2017, 11:12 AM
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I think 300cc is a good place to start. It is easier to add more than remove.
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  #44  
Old 07-15-2017, 02:55 PM
swazi_matt swazi_matt is offline
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Thanks. Measured the oil out of the other fork at 300 so went with that
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  #45  
Old 07-15-2017, 07:44 PM
Jacob 'Berg Jacob 'Berg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swazi_matt View Post
PS i had lots of eggwhite slime come out of my forks, but that might be because the seals lasted so well
White slime is better than grey/black gravy...
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  #46  
Old 06-29-2018, 04:54 PM
Thompo Thompo is offline
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Rather than start a new thread on same subject I'm asking here as a SSS newbie.

From reading through I'm wanting the same sort of compliance and I weigh similar but a good bit shorter lol.

Just got a set if 2007 yz250f forks and putting them on my 2011 250. Haven't fitted them yet awaiting parts so figured I'd start with the valving while I'm waiting and copy a working setup.

Pulled the base valve and it's different than that posted at the start here. All standard from what I can see. There is some tool marks inside the forks but base valve stacks were still peened

Base valve
Nut
Cup washer with 4 holes
Check plate
Piston no bleed holes
32x0.1x17
30x0.1
28x0.1
26x0.1
24x0.1
22x0.1
20x0.1
18x0.1
16x0.1
14x0.3
14x0.3
20x1.6
11x0.3
11x0.3
14x0.1
16x0.1
18x0.1
20x0.1
22x0.1x5

Is the 26-28 crossover needed?
What do I do with this stack below the spacer (20x1.6)?

Haven't got into the mid and rebound yet need a clamp for the damper rod.

Noticed 1 leg had grey oil looks like the shaft iwo the ics pistion has worn through the anodizing over a 30mm section. Main damper rods look good. Will maybe get the ics shafts redone if I can get then riding good.

And 2 5mm holes in the ics pistion body recommended?

Thanks for any help
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  #47  
Old 06-29-2018, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thompo View Post
Is the 26-28 crossover needed?
What do I do with this stack below the spacer (20x1.6)?
The crossover helps with slow speed bump compliance. Some people prefer a straight tapered stack, some like a crossover.

If you look at the post for the basevalve you will see it has some holes around the base of it which allow fluid to bypass. It's known as the bleed stack, and the stack below the spacers are what covers that. Works in conjunction with the clicker.
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  #48  
Old 06-30-2018, 03:41 AM
Thompo Thompo is offline
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Great thanks.

Would I be right in thinking having 2x 14x0.3 for the clamp it might be quite soft by giving a large gap for the stack to deform into?

Once I get the mid and rebound out I'll see what I have to play with. I'll add the crossover If I have shims spare. If not ill ride with a few less of the 32s and see how it feels.

I thought I had my marzocchi 45s working well until I rode a 2016 husky fe250. If I can get anywhere close to how it felt I'll be very happy. Not soft but compliant, ate everything and generated so much front end grip

I got into the mid and rebound today.

Reb
Nut
Washer
10x0.25x2
12x0.1
14
16
18
13
20x0.1x3

Piston
Mid

20x0.1x3
18
16
14
11x0.3x2
17x0.3x2

I make float to be 0.30mm
Post is 5.3mm
Cup washer is 2mm
Piston recess 1mm
Stack is 2mm

Last edited by Thompo; 06-30-2018 at 05:05 PM.
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  #49  
Old 06-30-2018, 09:43 PM
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The clamp OD determines the pivot that the rest of the stack will flex around. I don't think the height has a whole lot of influence unless if the stack is light enough that the face shims flex to hit the backer. Hardly an issue on this.

In my set I made some changes to the mid (comp and rebound) and the basevalve.. but to be honest just softening the BV up a touch from where it is will probably suffice.. at least enough to allow the bike to be punted around and a baseline for improvement to be found..

I'd probably start somewhere around 12 face shims, with a large-ish crossover around half way through em.
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  #50  
Old 07-02-2018, 04:17 AM
Thompo Thompo is offline
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Thumbs up

ah I see.

For now I have stolen a 22 out of the bleed stack (good move??) and moved it up as a crossover to get me something to ride.
Anything to be gained by replacing the majority of bleed stack with another 20x1.6 spacer (as per the OPs forks) or should I flip the stack, moving the 11x0.3x2 closest to the bleed ports, to allow some free bleed without being influenced by the 24x0.1X4 shims?

Mid and rebound left as is.

Comp
Piston no bleed holes
32x0.1x6
22x0.1
32x0.1x6 (was x17)
30x0.1
28x0.1
26x0.1
24x0.1
22x0.1
20x0.1
18x0.1
16x0.1
14x0.3
14x0.3..... ..... ..........Alternate bleed
20x1.6 ........... ........ 22x0.1x4
11x0.3 ...... ............. 20x0.1
11x0.3 ........... ........ 18x0.1
14x0.1 ............ ....... 16x0.1
16x0.1 .......... ......... 14x0.1
18x0.1 .... ............... 20x1.56
20x0.1 .... ................11x0.3
22x0.1x4 (Was x5).....11x0.3
Post with bleed holes

This will hopefully give me a decent base line to ride.
Brake adapter arrived so I turned some spacers on Saturday.

Just need a axle nut, fork guards and a steering stop figured out (bumper cut from some old tyre to get going) and im good to go.

Thanks

Last edited by Thompo; 07-02-2018 at 07:40 AM.
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