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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc |
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#1
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2011 45mm Marzocchi Manual or defaults? Shims in 2nd post
Hi folks, New here.
Picked up a UK 2011 250 cross country with 45mm Marzocchi forks (black tubes, black stanctions, no external preload adjuster) and Ohlins rear. I searched the site and found a manual for Shivers but mine aren't quite the same inside as the manual suggests. Is there a list of default shims for the various stacks? Default spring rate etc? Thanks for any info Last edited by Thompo; 11-07-2017 at 03:40 PM. |
#2
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Hi,
I bet GasGas UK special ordered that spec to avoid the hideous first Sachs 48 forks. I would guess you would get close by looking at 2007-2008 EC250/300 documentation. Mz Shiver 45's are your type with open-cartridge, Shiver 48's are the twin-chamber type. Target weight for stock springs I think in about 70-80 kilos, which is too little for me. I'm 90kgs. Getting a 5.4 shock spring for wasn't a problem, but 4.5Nm fork springs was not easy. I finally found a suspension tuner here in Sweden that had a chat with Ohlins and he got me a set, but they were too short. I had to make a nylon spacer, to add to the stock black spacer under the spring, to remove any free play. Stock space in my fork is approx. 6cm and the homemade one is about 4cm. I'd rather have a longer spring, but that's secondary. Shim stack is typical GG with lots of free-bleed. Good luck.
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mint 2008 EC200. Earlier bikes: Husqvarna WR125 '12, Husaberg FE450 '10, Sherco 4.5i '05, EC300 '07, YZ450 '03, WR250F '01, WR400F '00. |
#3
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Apologies i forgot about this thread!
Thanks for the info had my first proper test ride over the weekend and it was terrible. Forks transmit EVERYTHING through the bars, 20mins riding mainly rough tracks and rocky patches 2nd-3rd gear mostly my hands and arms were done. Was a bit of a handful over brick size rocks just skipping and jumping about. Tried moving bars, levers adjusting clickers no good. Swapped bikes with my mate, WR400 his felt so composed and comfy, would glide over bits i was being thrown around on, could ride all day on it but had to stop as my mates hands hurt after 5 mins on the gasgas Pulled the forks apart tonight to set about trying to make them work. Any advice? Im 105kg looking for an enduro setup no MX, clubman sort of standard with a trials background. 7.5wt Silkolene, new seals and bushes. 110mm air gap Paint is off rear spring and i havent got the fronts out yet to measure. front sag is 80mm, rear 105mm so im guessing springs are about right unless damping is masking something. this is the valving i found on the base. 23x1 23x1 23x1 23x1 23x1 23x1 23x1 23x1 23x1 23x1 11x2 22x1 22x1 22x1 22x1 21x1 20x1 19x1 18x1 17x1 16x1 15x1 14x1 13x1 12x2 12x2 Seems like a load of shims compared to anything i have found admittedly these all appear to be 0.1mm thick which i havent seen either. Havent got the tools to get into the rebound valve yet but the clicker doesnt have much effect so i guess it needs some work too. Thanks for any info Neil |
#4
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Turn the base valve upside down and try the same stack again. I've not tried this yet but if you read my thread I've already gone too far to try it. The restriction to the rebound should help as should the additional area to the compression.
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 38/NECW#2/165 FMF gnarly, FMF shorty, .50 front 5.7 rear 2016 RM-Z450 |
#5
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Good thinking!
Had been looking at modifying the existing piston or making something along the lines of a gold valve after reading the ports are very restrictive. Found a problem stripped the other leg.... base valve came apart as i buzzed it out, dunno if buzzing it out caused the screw holding the stack to come out or not but i had to go fishing to find the screw spring and check plate. Additionally the stack is missing a load of shims on the HS. Stack is 23x1 x10 11x2 22x1 x4 21x1 12x1 its missing 20,19,18,17,16,15,14,13,12 shims and they arent inside the fork |
#6
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Wow that's a mismatch and a half! Still, I wish I had even that amount of shims to play with...
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 38/NECW#2/165 FMF gnarly, FMF shorty, .50 front 5.7 rear 2016 RM-Z450 |
#7
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I am going to give the existing base valves a try using some shim stacks I found on the Cafe Husky forums posted by some of the more experienced guys.
I posted them in motopsycho's thread. They are pretty standard and are similar to other nice working forks I have seen. Terry Hay has posted that these base valves are capable of providing good results and are not really too restrictive. He says the shim stacks are actually more restrictive than the ports. I can believe that because it looks that way to me too. I have not actually done the calculations, but Terry is one of the best tuners on the planet, so I trust his judgment. Lots of other things can make the fork harsh besides base valve port size. For example I hear that rebound needs to be increased on these forks to reduce harshness feeling in your hands when the forks rebound too quickly. Will see how this works out. |
#8
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I'd still say try turning them over. After putting my new valves in with the same stack and smaller bleed hole, you can still feel a dramatic decrease in resistance on the high speed compression. Also it might be worth noting that the difference between 5w and 7.5w (iso 22 and 32 hydraulic oil in my books!) Might be the difference between plush and harsh with the correct shim stack and maybe mid valve...
Food for thought anyway! The local tuner ground the compression side inlets open a little on mine and stated vehemently that I should run 5w oil only. But with the shim stack and free bleed he provided on 0.5 springs with his 2mm recommended preload, half the stroke was lost on the smallest bumps, let alone the rough stuff.
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 38/NECW#2/165 FMF gnarly, FMF shorty, .50 front 5.7 rear 2016 RM-Z450 |
#9
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Built it up last night and just bouncing around the garage I don't feel much difference, will have to wait until weekend to get it out again.
One thing I did notice, if I sit on the bike, it settles into its travel front and rear, if I bounce on the seat or pegs, only the rear moves forks don't budge unless I put the front brake on and push them down. Either my rear is waaay too soft on the valving (105mm race sag, spring seems ok?) or the forks are binding (clamps only snugged up to check). Tonights goal will be to remove the springs (just had the base valves out) and check they aren't binding when mounted to the bike. Read a few things that point to bushing lands being too tight that can cause binding. A 1? taper is machined leaving 8mm support band to provide some wriggle room for the bushes, Im guessing it is the fork stanction that gets fettled as it carries the bush that moves through the clamps? |
#10
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I don't have experience with the 2011 forks myself, but seem to remember some comments from the time;
Something about the upper fork tubes being thin and easy to deform if the lower triple clamps are tightened too much. If you experience some binding, perhaps you should try loosening the lower triple clamp bolts a little.
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Anders "So you know, that you're over the hill when your mind makes a promise that your body can't fill" (Little Feat: Old Folks Boogie) 2015 EC200 Racing: TE bars, Rekluse Core Exp 3.0, 38mm Lectron & Ohlins S3 steering damper 2006 EC200: 2011 plastics, Rekluse Z-Start, revalved KYB forks & Scotts steering damper 1998 Bimota Supermono 1986 Duc Mille S2 1975 Guzzi sidecar hack 1961 Morini Corsaro 125 etc |
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