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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#11
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It takes more mineral oil in your fuel mix to give the same protection as synthetic so you don't necessarily save money by using a non-synthetic. My personal guide for mixing fuel is at 36/1 for mineral oil(Yammalube), 43/1 for semi-synthetic(Klotz), and 60/1 for full synthetic(Amsoil Dominator or Intercepter). In the 300 gasser the oils flashpoint is very important if you like to lug the bike or ride tight technical terrain. Chose an oil with a flashpoint below 100 degrees centigrade (210 fahrenheit). You can research a specific oil online to find it's flashpoint under technical details. A high flashpoint oil like Motul 800 will load up your engine and exhaust and cause it to run crappy at best or foul plugs at worst.
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#12
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Quote:
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2003 txt250 Pro 2013 Ossa 280i |
#13
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No it doesn't
Quantity of oil is as important as quality. Remember that it serves to provide a barrier between the piston and bore, by way of oil film, the only way that is achievable is by having a decent quantity of oil, the quality determines how quickly it breaks down and how clean it burns. What is on the cylinder will be scraped off by the rings on the next stroke. Oil does not magically seep into the nikasil and pop back out when the rings have passed it. Once again, many dyno runs have proven more oil is better, it reduces friction and promotes better ring sealing. If your bike starts smoking like a pig at 32:1, then you need to look at your jetting. Fact. I have no loading up issues in the woods and my bike gets its neck wrung at the Motocross track. Barely any ring wear after 2 years riding between 5-10 hours a week. And bugger all smoke when warm.
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 38/NECW#2/165 FMF gnarly, FMF shorty, .50 front 5.7 rear 2016 RM-Z450 |
#14
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https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...b5KjB_0KMsmzjh
Old but still relevant. And another http://www.3wheelerworld.com/archive...p/t-53212.html And another http://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm Just because you run expensive oil in your car doesn't mean you expect it to run on 1 litre...
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 38/NECW#2/165 FMF gnarly, FMF shorty, .50 front 5.7 rear 2016 RM-Z450 |
#15
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Quote:
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#16
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Damn, may as well burn all my engineering qualifications and 2 stroke tuning books. An American has spoken...
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2006 EC300 Enduro - Ignitech CDI - 38/NECW#2/165 FMF gnarly, FMF shorty, .50 front 5.7 rear 2016 RM-Z450 |
#17
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That is not necessary or helpful. Do you have a counter technical view or opinion?
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#18
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2cents worth-I guess im old school but when people speak of 1:60 up to 1:100 oil ratios i think "hand grenade"
Id rather live with a little spooge (assuming jetting is close,it means some oil is unburnt upon leaving the engine...not that there is too much oil in the mix). If there is no spooge at all then 100% of oil has combusted.Ash is a poor lubricant... 40:1 full synth a little spooge,no worrys Very high flashpoint synth such as belray h1r are best for wot/mx applications,they will spooge more even if your jetting is perfect if you ride tight and technical. Some lower flashpoint oils will also leave more residue on the plug (my own observation only) I like castrol power1 tts @40:1 for "a bit of everything" riding. Disclaimer,i dont have an engineering degree,but i read/research a lot,and have a decent amount of exp from chainsaws to tractors.LOL a kiwi has spoken!
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2013 ec200r |
#19
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2stroke oil
I have run klotz r50 40:1 great. little spooge no big deal great film on internals when doing top ends
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#20
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I run Klotz SuperTechniplate 40:1 in my EC300 2001.
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//Mattias in Sweden Gasgas EC300 |
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