WTB Rekluse LHRB

[HydroDog]

Originally Posted by HenrikSchmidt

I have to warn you against the new rekluse dual system.

http://rekluse.mybigcommerce.com/yam...model-fitment/

First off all, It's just a overpriced "hope" MTB brake master with a Rekluse logo.

Second, is the worst part, the dual action is optained by changing the lid of the original foot operated master to a new Rekluse lid with a thread to fit the brakeline from the LHRB.

That means when you use the LHRB you pressurize the original master from the top, and the brakefluid reservoir is NOT designed to take that kind of pressure!!:eek

My friend fit the system on his GG 300 and it was actually working good, untill he while braking, heard a loud "POP" and the LHRB lost all pressure and his right boot was soked in brakefluid, the level check window in the foot master was gone leaving him with a big hole in his rear master..

I hope this is not the new norm for Rekluse. I have the older system that I purchased in 07' and back then they had a sleeve that slid down inside the rear MC that sealed with an O-ring. If the o-ring is not in place then you would have a problem. I will say that Rekluse does RAPE the consumer on the LHRB kits.

[Pepperami]

I have bought one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2612562287...84.m1497.l2649

My thoughts are I will try to run the clutch off of this just for occasional/emergency use and run a single line from the nissin M/C to the rear brake. Ditching the rear pedal!

Any thoughts and advice more than welcome as I haven't really got a clue as to what i'm doing!

Just as an after thought don't you require the clutch lever to set free play gain?

Oh and one more thing can anyone see a problem running a 5 foot brake line?

[Darkside]

I have the older system that I purchased in 07' and back then they had a sleeve that slid down inside the rear MC that sealed with an O-ring. If the o-ring is not in place then you would have a problem.

This is still the case. I suspect the other guy installed his wrong. But, you are right about the setup being overpriced. There was a guy on the ktm site that was selling homemade setups that were rekluse clones.

[Anders]

Originally Posted by Pepperami

I have bought one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2612562287...84.m1497.l2649

My thoughts are I will try to run the clutch off of this just for occasional/emergency use and run a single line from the nissin M/C to the rear brake. Ditching the rear pedal!

Any thoughts and advice more than welcome as I haven't really got a clue as to what i'm doing!

I am not going to ditch the rear pedal. In an emergency, hitting the rear brake will be an instinctive reaction I think. Also, if someone (like one of my kids) should borrow it, having every control where we are are used to have them is a nice safety feature. When / if I build a LHRB, it will be connected via the rear M/C.

My plan is to buy a secondhand Hayes and go from there (into the workshop where my lathe is, that is).

Originally Posted by Pepperami

Just as an after thought don't you require the clutch lever to set free play gain?

Oh and one more thing can anyone see a problem running a 5 foot brake line?

No, I can see no reason why that should be a problem. It may be difficult to bleed if it swings up and down several times, but when properly bled, 5 feet should be no problem.

[andoman]

-I had the super long line from the handlebar to the rear caliper. It worked just fine.
-I do prefer the dual action setup as I find that I only use the LHRB when things get technical or for long gnarly downhill sections.
-I not buying the over pressure issue causing loss of the sight glass mentioned above. Whether the pressure is from the brake peddle in the stock setup, or via a lever at the handlebar: the pressure required to operate the caliper is pushing on the sight glass and will be equal given an equal pressure at the caliper.
-I found the new LHRB (agreed its pricy) as good as the old one or converted clutch MC. Its design does take up less space on the bar. And its a little lighter.

[Anders]

Originally Posted by andoman

-I not buying the over pressure issue causing loss of the sight glass mentioned above. Whether the pressure is from the brake peddle in the stock setup, or via a lever at the handlebar: the pressure required to operate the caliper is pushing on the sight glass and will be equal given an equal pressure at the caliper.

Using the rear master cylinder the way it was indended (pushing down the pedal) does not pressurize the resevoir with the sight glass. It's just the volume between the M/C piston and the caliper piston that is pressurized. As soon as you move the pedal (and the piston), the resevoir is sealed off from the cylinder.
Hence the need for the o-ring. This o-ring effectively seals off the reservoir at all times, so the actual brake fluid volume available to the rear M/C will be the fluid in the line to the handlebar, and the handlebar reservoir. Doing it this way, you can pressurize the rear master's piston/cylinder volume (using the handlebar M/C) without having a fluid leakage into the reservoir.

[Pepperami]

What size are the threads on the connectors?

[desertgasser300]

OK, I did a little experiment the other day while out riding. I wanted to see just how much I still use my clutch even with the rekluse. I moved my clutch lever in on the bars so I couldn't reach it. Well it really screwed with me. I couldn't get used to not using it. I was surprised at how much I still use it. In and out of corners and climbing. I would really have to ride more without it to get use to not using it.

[firffighter]

Funny, I did same test this summer on a 3 day riding trip and found the opposite. I never use my clutch with the perfectly set up Z-start Pro. I rode 50+ miles each day with each set up and after, took off my clutch lever and removed the rear brake foot pedal, never to be installed again!

The LHRB is absolutely the best mod I've ever done and I've done them all. It has revolutionized my riding and it is so nice for tight woods. I save so much energy not having to use my right foot to modulate the rear brake. Plus, you can feel the rear brake so much easier using the LHRB which is a huge bonus as you never have to lock up the rear brake if you dont want.

[desertgasser300]

Originally Posted by firffighter

Funny, I did same test this summer on a 3 day riding trip and found the opposite. I never use my clutch with the perfectly set up Z-start Pro. I rode 50+ miles each day with each set up and after, took off my clutch lever and removed the rear brake foot pedal, never to be installed again!

The LHRB is absolutely the best mod I've ever done and I've done them all. It has revolutionized my riding and it is so nice for tight woods. I save so much energy not having to use my right foot to modulate the rear brake. Plus, you can feel the rear brake so much easier using the LHRB which is a huge bonus as you never have to lock up the rear brake if you dont want.

I need to keep at it and try it again. I really like the idea of the LHRB because of the reason you stated about being able to feel the brake more.

On a professional side note since your a FF you might appreciate this? Our new fire Chief races MX and does the fire/police race at Glenn Helen every year. Although he does ride a CRF450, I told him I wouldn't hold it against him.