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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 01-15-2018, 02:32 AM
braaaplifejonesing braaaplifejonesing is offline
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Question

So I'm pretty much stuck. I don't have an auto mechanic grade impact gun and I can't seem to get this clutch baskets nut loose. I only need to move the clutch so I can remove the kicker shaft assy right? I can't take it off without removing the clutch I tried several times. not enough room unfortunately. so what tricks are there to remove this nut. I flattened the washer. it won't budge. its not reverse thread right?

I can't seem to find anything to hold while turning it other than the (old used )countershaft sprocket on the other side being driven when I apply pressure.
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2018, 02:44 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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As per other thread:

Lefty loosey. Should be around 70Nm on it from memory. Easiest way is to give it a couple ugga duggas with with impact (electric or air).

Otherwise there are basket holding tools you can use but as you've stated the basket is quite soft. You could also try applying some downward pressure onto the plates themselves. That may add enough friction to hold everything in place while you (or someone else) cracks the nut undone.
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2018, 10:50 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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The old standby when you haven't got the right tools: put a copper penny between the primary gear and clutch basket gear to lock the gears. Note that a soft metal is required to avoid damaging the gears. A piece of leather may be OK too, just be sure you can also lock the engine in the opposite direction when you go to do the nut back up.
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  #14  
Old 01-16-2018, 11:07 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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What I said would work for the primary nut. For the clutch hub the best way is to take two old clutch plates (one steel and one fibre) and rivet or bolt them together. This plate setup then allows the clutch basket to hold the hub.
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2018, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
What I said would work for the primary nut. For the clutch hub the best way is to take two old clutch plates (one steel and one fibre) and rivet or bolt them together. This plate setup then allows the clutch basket to hold the hub.
Great idea!
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  #16  
Old 01-20-2018, 11:35 PM
braaaplifejonesing braaaplifejonesing is offline
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Default Thank you

Thanks guys for the ideas of getting off the clutch boss nut.

Correct size ended up being a 1 & 3/16th inch socket.
after putting the motor on a ?sturdy? table adding straps to hold the motor from turning up when applying pressure and a pipe wrench on the old countershaft sprocket the thing came loose with body weight got so pics of the jerry rig.
Think I?ll use it to tighten too...

But now I?m at the piston ring gap setting procedure and according to the weisco instructions standard minimum clearance is bore size? x .004 equals clearance.

My 72mm = 2.8 ?x .004 =.0112? which is very very small
It pretty much seems already big enough the way they came. Has anyone ever had luck just throwing them in without shaving?
I don?t even think they have feeler gauges this small???

Kicker shaft is replaced now I just need to replace clutch disc and re-assemble...

Got my gaskets from UK finally after customs checked them
And I got some cool gear I can?t wait to show off. GasGas hoodie from GasGaspartsguy is awesome. So fresh
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  #17  
Old 01-21-2018, 01:37 AM
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Gasser Nate Gasser Nate is offline
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0.30mm will be fine for a 300 mate.
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Last edited by Gasser Nate; 01-21-2018 at 02:29 PM.
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  #18  
Old 01-21-2018, 08:08 AM
braaaplifejonesing braaaplifejonesing is offline
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Default Piston ring gap on 72mm bore (2.8 inches)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasser Nate View Post
0.12mm will be fine for a 300 mate.
Wait because this is important.
My math equation is in inches not mm
(per wiseco instructions bore inch x .004 inch equals gap inch)
So my equation was .0112 of an inch not mm
Your gap .12mm is only .004 of an inch which is smaller than my equation
I?m confused now see pics for wiseco instructions
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Old 01-21-2018, 12:56 PM
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Gasser Nate Gasser Nate is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braaaplifejonesing View Post
Wait because this is important.
My math equation is in inches not mm
(per wiseco instructions bore inch x .004 inch equals gap inch)
So my equation was .0112 of an inch not mm
Your gap .12mm is only .004 of an inch which is smaller than my equation
I?m confused now see pics for wiseco instructions
My apologies mate, it should have been 12 thou, which should be 0.30mm. Sorry!
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  #20  
Old 01-21-2018, 03:05 PM
braaaplifejonesing braaaplifejonesing is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasser Nate View Post
My apologies mate, it should have been 12 thou, which should be 0.30mm. Sorry!

Just bought a feeler gauge and out of the box the rings are .014 / .35mm
So I?m good mate! thanks

Hey looks like you have a 2018 GasGas aren?t they fuel injected or am I confusing them with betas??? How do you like it?
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