#21
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Mine is direct to frame no paint or powder in the way. Also had it earthed to metal bench no change. Its not bad earth.
My electrics are standard no mods. Stator has never been changed. |
#22
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Quote:
I have a feeling my 2010 model always did the same thing too. Always had inconsistancy with the trail tech speedo resetting itself which continued even after replacing the unit many hours on. I suspected it was the speedo unit, but never checked the voltage. |
#23
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I don't know what to offer at this point. Maybe the next step is to put in an aftermarket full wave rectifier and unground all of the lighting. The stator, CDI and coil remain grounded as normal. The old regulator is removed.
Input to the new reg/rect is yellow and ground. Output from the reg/rect is DC on red and blue wires. Red is used as positive and goes to the headlight switch. From there power goes to the headlight as normal. The original ground wires at the headlight and tail light are disconnected and moved to the new blue wire. This means the lighting is not frame/chassis grounded. It only gets DC negative via the reg/rect blue wire (we are isolating/floating the reg/rect output by doing this). The tail light can be connected to the new red all the time. The brake light switch will be connected to the new red wire and the switch output will be connected to the brake light filament. No battery is needed. If a battery is added, then white and ground can power the reg/rect so the voltage is a bit higher and will charge the battery. Just to recap, the stator has three connections: engine/frame ground plus yellow OR white wire. Yellow = most of the windings, white = all of the windings.
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2011 EC250E |
#24
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Woah. I'll need to read that a few times.. my electrical knowledge is pretty below average.
Is there any chance this could be a stator issue? |
#25
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I doubt it. Going back to basics, the flywheel has permanent magnets and it revolves around the stator windings. This produces current in the windings and we get our electrical power. The stator windings can go bad and output suffers or they can go "open" and we have no output.
The stator only delivers power directly proportional to RPM. The higher the RPM the higher the voltage. The whole issue centers around controlling the voltage which brings us right back to the regulator. Maybe it's time to try a regulator from a different brand of 2T motorcycle and see what happens (Leonelli quality problem maybe).
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2011 EC250E |
#26
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Neil i hqve a trailtech regulator it makes no difference. the dc conversion is a solution I have considered but its a bit beyond my knowledge to come up with a wiring diagram. I have considered making a standard style temporary loom to rule out the standard loom being faulty. What's your opinion on that please?
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#27
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Johnny, that is a good plan, however I don't know how the loom itself can cause the issues. For the work involved it's probably easier to convert the lighting to DC. I'll make a simple diagram for Jake so he can see what I'm driving at.
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2011 EC250E |
#28
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You would have to trace out the wires to confirm the actual stock colours and connection points, but this is the gist of what's going on. Note that in the battery setup you would need a main toggle to turn off power to the lights (or they would be on all the time).
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2011 EC250E |
#29
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The only way I could see a loom issue would be if the white wire was making contact with the yellow wire. Even then the voltage would not be that much higher. At the very worst it would be 25% more but the regultor should still handle it.
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2011 EC250E |
#30
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The wiring changes might not be as much work as you think. It's more a matter of separating out the ground wires and having only the ground wires for the lighting connected to the blue wire.
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2011 EC250E |
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